Central America

Unfortunately I had to set up the blog again and due to limitations of time, i just copy the written articles in one long article (without pictures) I hope I will find time to split the articles again and provide you with pictures from great people, photos about the culture and breathtaking nature.

 

Guatemala: Poor but Adventurous!

Reading Time: 4 minutes

There are many buses from Guatemala city to reach Flores an island located in the middle of a lake in the north of Guatemala. The main reason why tourists come to Flores is the good infrastructure. From here you can start hikes into the jungle to discover unexplored maya ruins, caves and Tikal is also not far away. The island itself is small and everything a tourist needs is there.

At the moment it is the end of the rainy season and many lakes are flooded. It is still raining at Flores when I arrive. It is quite easy to find a cheap hostel for less than 5€. Furthermore there are many travel agencies which provide bus trips and adventure trips to everywhere around Flores. The prices are negotiable. I decide to see Tikal in the early morning. As a consequence I must wake up at 4 am. The bus reaches Tikal before six. The sun is not risen and it is still slightly raining. Clouds are hanging over the high trees. A group of 4 people included me start to discover the ruins in the jungle by ourselves. The other people in the bus join an interesting guided tour through the jungle which gives you a good idea about the life of the Mayas. However I like to discover places by myself and like to take my time. We start our own tour and we can hear some animals. Birds are flying over the trees and we are climbing around the old maya ruins. It is allowed to climb up some temples which is often forbidden at other ruins. The whole way of exploring, no other tourists at these time and the good preserved ruins make Tikal to my favourite ruins in the world. I am strongly impressed.

In order to go to Semuc Champey I take an early bus. On the way I get a really good overview of Guatemala. Sometimes there are no bridges so the bus crosses the river with a ferry consisting of some wood and four outboards. Referring to Wikipedia Guatemala has the largest economy in Central America. However it is still a really poor country. Everywhere you can see huts, chicken are running around and many dogs lay on the street. This impression gets stronger when the bus leaves a proper street. Besides the road you can see small wooden houses and children washing cloth in brown rivers. Finally I reach Lanquin and I am brought to the hostel on the back of a pick-up.

 

One of my best days so far starts: A group of people from the hostel and I start hiking up a mountain to a viewing point with scenic views. Then it goes down into the natural pools of Semuc Champey. It is playground. Jumping from rocks into the pools, sliping into the pools and swimming there. You can have a really good time there. After lunch the best part of the day begins. I had no expectations and we are going to a cave dressed only with a swimsuit. Everyone gets a candle and we enter a small cave. The hardest part is to go into the cold water in which you have to be all the time in the cave, I sometimes must swim, I sometimes must climb up the walls and ladders. Activities in the cave are going through a small waterfall, slipping down into a water pool and jump down a cliff in the cave. After coming out of the cave we get the possibility to jump down from the bridge. The day comes to an end with a couple of beers. The next day it is time to leave this valley of adventure.

 

Guatemala – A Second Home

Reading Time: 3 minutes

I do not know how to start to describe my life in Guatemala and what I do. The best is to start at the beginning. I meet friends in Antigua, the old capital of Guatemala. It is a beautiful town with colonial charm and similar to San Christobal in Mexico. Volcanos rise behind the town. In order to be famous for its good coffee, there are many small coffee shops in the town. Antigua is the center of religiosity (catholic) which is vanished at night when the bars open. It is time to see another face of Guatemala. It is good to discover the town with my new friends Marie Emilia, Mario Rene and their cousins. They show me the best places in town and teach me Spanish (in the following days it is better than any Spanish school). They impress me with their hospitality. It takes not long and it feels like hanging around with brothers and sisters. In the evening we drive to Guatemala city which is often called only Guatemala. After eating dinner together with an aunt (it is a really big family) we drive around and see Guatemala city especially the center at night. I m excited to see it at night because normally it is too dangerous to walk around. It partly reminds me of Johannesburg in South Africa.

A Parc in Antigua

I cannot remember when I slept the last time in an own bed without anybody in the room. It is relaxing and comfortable. However the night is short because at 6 o’clock it goes to Lake Atitlan. Sometimes I m a little bit confused because I have to switch between Spanish, English and German depending on the person I speak with. It is a good training and I appreciate to be around with such incredible people. We have a lot of fun. The road is bad and I experience how cold it can be in the mountains. According to the different landscape there are many different climates in Guatemala. The roads are bad and it is cloudy. Finally we arrive at the lake and in conjunction with the sun it gets warm again. The lake lies beautiful and quiet in a valley surrounded by volcanos and mountains. Our group decide to do a boat trip and without hesitation an own boat is chartered. At his point I think that pictures say more than thousands words.

Due to the north wind the way back is long and bumpy. We are getting wet. Despite every wave is fun I am happy to go ashore. On our way to the parents we drive through coffee plantations and see many rubber trees. Furthermore I know now why it is said that there is always spring in Guatemala. The landscape is beautiful. We arrive in the hometown of the siblings Maria and Mario and I m excited to meet their parents. How will they receive me?

At this point I summary my last days with one word: hospitality. They are so nice to me. I know that other cultures are more famous for its hospitality. From my experience it is impossible to exceed this incredible family. We eat and drink very good, drive around (partly four by four roads) and enjoy life. At the same time I learn Spanish which is not always easy but it makes fun. Furthermore I visit the large farm of the family which produces chicken, coffee, lemon and cautschuk. Hence I can see the process of coffee cultivation. It is very interesting to learn more about Guatemala. Thank you so much for this unique opportunity.

Coffee Plantation

Process of Coffee Cultivation

Indigenas

 

Guatemala – Final Days and Guatemalan Wedding

Reading Time: 3 minutes

One of my wishes in Guatemala is to see an active volcano (and lava if possible). I mentioned it once to my new Guatemalan family. As a result they arrange a trip with me. We drive to the Volcano Pagaya. Although there are no tourists, our guide tells us of many hundred tourists at the weekends. Fortunately, today we have the volcano for us. When we start at the parking lot it is warm and sunny but as we climb up it gets quickly colder. The air becomes dusty because of the strong wind. Due to the wrong clothes we decide not to climb up all the way to the top. However we have a fantastic view of the eruptions of the volcano Fuego. According to our guide the big lava stream of Pagaya has been cold since March 2014 but it is still possible to see where the lava ran down. Next time I will see hot lava. 😉 By the way one of the disadvantages of volcanos are strong earthquakes (5 or 6,…) which are not unusual in this region.

 

Pagaya with dog

A second experience I want to share with you, is the trip to the pacific beaches. The way to go there is quite hard. For 120 km we need more than 3 hours. The reasons mainly are so called “Tumulus” which are little bumps everyone can build in front of his house if he wants to slow down the traffic. Sometimes every 5 meters a Tumulu is built. Officially it is forbidden to build them by themselves. Before reaching the beach we have to pass a little river by boot and then finally we have a wonderful sandy beach only for us. The water is approximately 28° degrees warm and nice waves invite to bodysurf. We spend a wonderful day there. The day ends while the sun is slowly going down into the sea.

 

 

How do you think is a Guatemalan wedding? Well, one week ago I had no idea. At Saturday evening the whole family including me goes to a wedding of a school friend of Mario and Maria. I m happy that I can join them and they organize a pretty suit for me. Over 350 guest will come to the wedding and I have already seen pictures from the beautiful decoration. The location is a large “Finca”. Although it is night the entrance is enlightened by hundreds of candles. Inside thousands of lamps illuminates the big garden. A big stage is placed in front of a dance floor on which is later program and a band is playing songs with salsa rythm. Every table have their own waiter who provides everything from champagne to water. I was asked what would be the largest difference between weddings in Germany and Guatemala: It is always difficult to say it in general but beside the size of the wedding personally, I think it is that at a Guatemalan wedding the people dance through the night.

At this point I want to thank again the whole family of Mario and Maria for that wonderful awesome time in Guatemala which I will never forget. Muchas Gracias! See you hopefully soon again.

 

Nicaragua: What you should know about?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Before my trip, I looked on the map and it was strange I did not know anything about that country. Is it dangerous, is there anything to do, or can I skip it? The people who know me know that I am very curious and so I want to see the country by myself.

My first destination is Leon, a city in the north. It has beautiful old churches but in total the city is not the reason why you should go there, rather the volcanos around are my destination. When I arrive in my hostel a sandboarding tour is leaving. Without hesitation I join them. But what is sandboarding? If you want to do sandboarding, you need two things: a board and a sandy volcano. My guide tells me that it is only possible in Leon, maybe you find another place. The whole way is a four by four road and the atmosphere in the car is really good. By the way the whole group consists of Germans and Austrians. When we arrive at the volcano we get our boards and a backpack. Then we hike one hour up the volcano. The view is amazing. From the top of the volcano you can see the pacific and other volcanos. After taking hundreds of photos it is time to change clothes and get ready for boarding down the volcano. From the top it looks really steep. The first two people start and they are fast. Then it is my turn. I propose not to brake…but after the first meters I know this would be a bad decision and I brake continuously. I arrive safely at the end. However not all of us come down safely. One German who was really fast fall off at the last meters and broke his arm. Thus be careful.

My second destination is Granada, an old colonial city with a lot of charm. It has beautiful old buildings and churches and it makes fun to walk around. However I feel that I have seen everything after one day.

Therefore it is time heading to the next destination: Isla Ometepe. This island lies directly in the middle of the Nicaraguan lake. Two volcanos reach up to the sky. Due to the fact that there are many dirt roads a group of people, mostly are again Germans, hire motorcycles and quads and discover the island. Our adventure is rewarded with a beautiful sunset. Fortunately there starts a festival at the next day on the island which we check out. It is my first festival outside of Europe. Although it is really small the atmosphere and the music are good. Furthermore there are many other things on the island like hiking up the volcanos or see a waterfall. Personally I choose to see a last place in Nicaragua at the pacific coast: San Juan. The place itself is really touristic and the beach there is not nice. However there are very good beaches around to do surfing. In order of the cheap prices in Nicaragua it is one of the cheapest place to surf in Central America.

Next destination: Costa Rica.

 

How I Passed Costa Rica in 4 Days?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Ok why four days and have I seen anything in Costa Rica? My answer is yes, I was at three beautiful places and enjoyed Costa Rica. Someday I will come back here but so far, I decided to make only short stops here, passing Christmas in Columbia if possible.

Back to the question what you can see in 4 days. All depends on your travel speed. I travelled really fast. So at the first day I left Nicaragua with the first bus to Costa Rica. At the moment I only take public transportation and if there are no buses I try to hitch-hike which is so far very successful. After a couple of buses and two lifts I arrived in Santa Elena close to Monteverde. The way is a four by four road but the landscape is beautiful. In the background I could see the peninsula and the pacific. Monteverde itself is a big natural reserve or rather cloud forest. Many animals are living here and it is very beautiful for hikes. Although it was already afternoon, I visited the national parc. I saw the time not as a problem rather it is opportunity to see the forest while I m running. Of course sometimes I stopped ;-)) Fresh air of the rain forest in the lungs and to feel power in the muscle, let forget all the troubles and stress of the last days. Another activities many tourists do in this area are

  • Horse riding
  • Canopy
  • Sip lining

At the second day in Costa Rica it is time to go to La Fortuna close to the active volcano Arenal which still throw stones out. Unfortunately the weather was cloudy and rainy. Thus it was impossible to see the volcano. Even the lake nearby looked dreary. I waived to hike around. There are also waterfalls and hot springs but to be honest I had neither the time nor the desire to see it. I have seen many waterfalls and hot springs are cool when it is cold.

The third day it was really adventures: I had no idea where to sleep or which bus I had to take after San Jose. It was time again for a challenge and for sure I practiced Spanish ;-).

I got my buses even if I had to switch three times the bus. It was already dark when I arrived in Puerto Viaje and many hostels were full. Finally Robert, a guy from Chile and I found a cheap but shabby hostel. However the atmosphere in the hostel was good and I liked the people there. Due to the hostel and the touristy place (very expensive) I wanted to continue travelling. Before I left I wanted to see the beach therefore I woke up early and hitch-hiked to the beach. It is beautiful, convince yourself ;-):

Then it was time to say goodbye to Costa Rica. Before getting my exit stamp I had to pay taxes at the border. Even leaving is not free in this country. Unfortunately I could not do so many pictures because of the rainy weather.

Costa Rica-Panama Border

 

Panama – Country of Bananas and the Panama Canal

Reading Time: 3 minutes

What do you think when you hear Panama?

Personally I think about the Panama canal and Bananas. Ok I have to add a third point. Panama has also beautiful islands with even more beautiful beaches.

My first destination is the Island group Bocas del Torres in the north east of Panama. Only three hours away of Puerto Viajo in Costa Rica. The entrance to Panama is tricky without a return flight but finally I can convince the border control that I want to travel further to Colombia by ship. After two buses I arrive the harbour town Almirante. Quickly I take the next boat to the main island Bocas which is also famous for their parties. I am more interested in beautiful beaches. Thus I take the next ferry to Bastimentos, famous for silence and beautiful beaches. However on the way I tried to get money from an ATM but no money comes out. In order of having almost no money, my activities in the next days are limited. However I have an incredible time. What can you do on Bastimentos without money:

  • Enjoy the beautiful sea view from a cheap hostel (7,50$/night)
  • Jungle hikes which are a great adventure
  • Beautiful Wizard beach
  • Red Frog beach

You can also do boat and snorkelling trips to other island where the water is calm. My favourite beach is Wizard beach with its high waves. Unfortunately I cannot show you pictures because it is more safe not to take valuables to the beach. Thus I changed my phone against a machete. After a muddy jungle hike there is nothing better than going swimming in the beautiful blue-green sea. It is probably one of the best beaches I have been so far. A wonderful time.

Second part of my panama experience: The night bus to Panama city is booked out and I still do not have money. Fortunately the ATM is working again and on the way to Panama I get money. As a result of the full bus to Panama, I take a bus to David, the second largest city in Panama and from there a bus to Panama which is even cheaper. Panama city is not a typical Central American capital. It has a large white skyline and the beautiful old center Casco Viajo. The American influence is obvious. However there are still many dangerous places in the city. For sure the most interesting tourist attraction is the Panama canal. Every day many large ships pass this small passage which cost for big container ships easily 400.000 $.

Mexico – Illegal in a beautiful country

San Christobal: The most authentic Mexican City?

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In contrast to Puerto Escondido I arrive recovered in San Christobal. From the local busstation I first go my hostel and can lionize the beauty of San Christobal on the way. Sometimes you can feel from the first moment that the place is a city you will love and definitely San Christobal is such a city. The city is not so hot like the beach cities on the Yucatan Island but still hot enough.

San Christobal Street

San Christobal in a short view:

The city consists of many colourful houses and churches like the blue church. On two sides you can see a church on a mountain and the whole city is surrounded by forests and mountains. The center is not very big and you can walk easily around. It has two streets without any cars but instead many bars, restaurants and shops. It is famous for the beautiful churches the indigenous markets, mountains with cactus and the good vibe.

A church in San Christobal

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Whats to do in San Christobal?

  • Canyun de Sumidero in Chiapas de Corzo
  • Churches in San Christobal
  • San Juan Chamula (Church and graveyard including locals who perform Maya rituals)
  • Local Markets with fruits, local food and local cloth
  • Party in the bar Revolution
  • Eat Tacos on the streets
  • Learning Salsa in a school or in a bar

And finally some impressions:

Blue Church San Christobal

Car accident on the Highway

 

With boat in the Canyon

Old Maya Village: San Juan Chamula

Environment of Maya village

Cooking with friends in the best hostel Posada del Abuelito

I really loved San Christobal however it is time to say again: Next stop….

Palenque and Tulum!

 

The most famous ruins of Mexico and Tulum

Reading Time: 3 minutes

After a night bus journey, as so often, there are many organizational things to do, where can I leave my luggage, where can I get food and where is the transportation to the next place. Then it goes directly to the Maya ruins which are in the jungle and located on hills. The atmosphere is completed by monkeys which screaming in the jungle. From the high ruins I have a good view over a green countryside. However it is quite tough to walk steps up and down. The rest of the day I spend in Palenque because after raining the whole night, the waterfall “agua azul” is not blue any more. Palenque itself is not beautiful but sometimes everyone needs a rest. Nevertheless one highlight is a Mexican graveyard which is completely different to Europe. Mexicans celebrate death and drink with the dead people. Therefore the graves are colourful and you can find food and beer on the graves.

Tulum:

On the first view there is nothing special in Tulum, it is more or less a touristy main road. However there are many activities and day trips you can do in its environment. Thus it is not as bad as it sounds. The people are relaxed and the beach which is next to the local Maya ruins is beautiful like the ruins itself. If you want to see Caribbean beaches and the sea you are definitely right here. In addition there is a beach called Akumal (between Playa del Carmen and Tulum) where I swim with big and small turtles (sometimes as big as my backpack). Due to the fact that the prices for everything are really high you should bring your own equipment with you. Unfortunately, I cannot show you pictures because I do not have an underwater camera. Furthermore there are many cenotes in the area around Tulum in which you can snorkel and even dive if you have a licence. What is a cenote? A cenote is a kind of cave which is flooded over the years and sometimes consists of many tunnels. I dive in the Dos Ojos cenote. Here as well, I have no pictures but I want to give you an idea: I enter a kind of cave with blue crystal clear water. I jump with my tank on the back, my googles and a neopren into the water and can feel the cold water on my skin. Everywhere the stalactites are hanging down. When I m diving I see sometimes a natural light in the end otherwise the diving lamp illuminate a magical underwater stone world which is usually quiet and dark. When I go to the surface I can hear and see bats flying around in some of the holes between. Slowly I hover over the stalamites. Definitely one of my favourite experiences so far.

Lake Bacalar: Now I m at the Lake Bacalar. For sure it is worth to make a quick stop there. The lake consists of seven colours. You can go diving, snorkelling or swimming there as well. It is my last stop before I leave Mexico. Hopefully without any problems because some days ago during a police control at night I realized that I am illegal in Mexico having no stamp and no arrival card (Crossing border in Tijuana through a metal gate without any control). Thus I expect many troubles at the border. I will let you know how it is going on with me.

 

Illegal in Mexico: Stories from Borders

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The next morning I wake up very early and take the next taxi collectivo to the Belize border. I expect a long, adventures day. The reason is some nights ago the police stopped the bus and checked the passports. In this moment I realized that they wanted to see a stamp and the arrival card in my passport which are not existing because I got nothing at the border from San Diego to Tijuana. I had big luck because they forget me on the way out. Otherwise …. I did some research and it seemed that I m not the only one who has no stamp. However there was a story in the Australian news about a girl who was in the same situation and must stay 10 days in prison. Despite this story I am optimistic that I can handle it. Expecting a long waiting time to cross the border, I cannot take a direct bus to Belize. Thus I walk to the border and should pay 100$ to the border control which I refuse. After discussions I can go without any stamp to Belize. It is still raining and I m a little bit sceptical. This was too easy. At the border in Belize they refuse me because I cannot enter their country without a stamp from Mexico. There is no space for discussions and I walk back to Mexico. My mood is now like the weather. I can see that the border control has already expected me. I continue my discussion. Finally after waiting one more hour the supervisor gives me the required exit stamp without paying any money. Then the entrance in Belize is very easy and I travel through Belize at the same day.

Unfortunately I do not have time to get money from the ATM because the buses always leave when I arrive. Using my last Mexican Pesos I have changed at the border in Belize Dollar and US Dollar from the States I can pay at least the buses. True, I could stay one night to get money and food but the places I have been in Belize are not very pleasant. By the way Belize city is not very beautiful and although the country is poor, everything is quite expensive. In Belize the local buses are old School buses from the US which has the disadvantage of small seats. Without any money, some water and no food the long day continues. In the late afternoon I arrive at the last town in Belize before the border to Guatemala. I must walk 3 km to reach the border.

Shortly I want to describe my situation: I m tired, hungry and I m not sure where I will sleep because in the last hostel the internet did not work. Nevertheless I m excited as always when I m at a border and travel to a new country. I try to hitch-hike to the border but nobody wants to give me a lift without money. Some people call Belize also the One-Dollar country because many people come and ask for one dollar. When I arrive at a little hill some pupils sitting on their bmx bikes look at me like an alien and shout they will give me a lift. Not taking them serious I continue. In fact 200 m later they stop beside me and offer me a lift. With some doubts I accept and it goes to the border sitting on the back of a small bike with my big backpack and a small one in the front. It must look very funny. At this point: “muchas gracias chicos!” I crossed the border without paying the unofficial “processing fee” of 15€. In Guatemala many things are easier and I m excited what new adventures expect me in this country.

USA – A road trip through a nation

Meet up with my sister in Washington D.C.

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At night I sneak out because I do not want to wake up Cris. It is amazing that the subway is also going at night. Regardless the time I really want to go to Washington and meet my little sister. My plan is to wait in a McDonald which is close to the Bus station but unfortunately it opens not before 5:30 and my bus goes at 5 am. Therefore I continue walking to the bus stop and sit on an old cold metal chair. I have luck that it is not raining but it is still cold. After 1 hour the bus arrives and I sleep the complete drive until Washington which is a little bit a shame because I cannot see the landscape.

I hope I missed nothing but now it is time to look forward to meet my sister. Instead of waiting at the bus stop she is at another place. After one hour searching her, we find each other. I would have never thought that my younger sister and I are meeting in a city abroad. We start our sight-seeing trip beginning with the capitol, followed by the Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial, White House and Chinatown. In the Pentagon mall next to the Pentagon we eat lunch and finished our sight-seeing trip in Georgetown. Washington is clean and it seems smaller than New York because the highest building must be the capitol. Instead of a wide range of different cultures you see more tourists and people with a suit who probably work for the government. However I enjoy that Washington is more quiet than New York. But when you are walking through the streets you can feel the silent power of the city which can have influence millions of people.

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Today the sky is completely blue. Normally at this time of the year I would wear a thick jacket but not in Washington in these days. I m a little bit nervous to meet the family Viola is living and working with. In fact I have no reason for that because the family is great. The children are bright and love soccer. The parents are really hospitable and kind. After playing soccer with the children in the garden, we eat dinner at a Greek restaurant. In the following days I lived an American life. For example we drove everywhere with the car because of the lack of public transportation or I dried my clothes in a dryer instead of hanging out the laundry. I ate Donuts and a lot of other Fast Food. Undoubtedly it is the cheapest way to eat here. I go shopping with my sister and we visit the Air&Space museum which presents old air planes and a lot of things about the outer space. The best is almost all museums in Washington are free.

Another highlight is a soccer game of one of the children. My impression is that sport is really important here and I m excited how it is working here. I m impressed by the coach who is really ambitious and motivates the player in a positive way. The last day I relax and prepare my next steps. On the one hand it is sad that I leave this family but on the other hand it is time to come back on the road.
I m looking forward to San Francisco and the new adventures which expect me there. I still do not have an idea how to travel in California. Hence it will be really interesting.

 

Why I like San Francisco

Lombard Street

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Some of you know that I m not sure how to continue from San Francisco. Thus the first thing I do in San Francisco is to look for travel mates to travel south or through National Parks like the Yosemite. I hang up notes in many hostels in San Francisco while walking from tourist attraction to attraction. In one of the hostels I find a note of another German person. And so I emailed her. I do not know at this moment that I will spend only one day in San Francisco because the next day I will travel with her and a French girl south along the coast. However I m disappointed that I cannot see the Yosemite that I can stay only one day in San Francisco. I think deep in my inside I had hoped to find a person who wants to go climbing in the Yosemite but anyway I m happy to find that possibility especially because it is low season and the chance to find travel mates is low. But back to San Francisco on the one hand I really like the fancy houses, attractions like the Golden Gate Bridge, the street art and the atmosphere of the Haight Street. On the other hand I m negative surprised the Fisherman’S Wharf is nothing special and there are many homeless people on the street although it is cold in this town. My favourite place is so far the beach close to the Golden Gate park. I really enjoy the atmosphere like the skateboarders and open minded people who helps you whenever you ask them.

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How to travel from San Fran to Los Angelos

At the next day I meet Martina (German girl) and Marie (French girl) at the airport. I have no idea what expects me and what the plan is but hey it is an adventure. The girls have already met each other. I m glad that I can join them spontaneously. Marie has already booked a car and has a plan what she wants to do but in the following she shows hardy existing driving skills which is sometimes really exhausting. Due to the navigation system we drive to the next beach and have our first team meeting. The west coast is astonishing with regard to the houses which are built directly into the hang or the sand dunes with the blue sea. This is mixed with a small portion of fog and you have the atmosphere of the west coast. We follow the scenic road along the coast. The west coast surprises us with sea lions, castles, cold water and beautiful national parks like Big Sur. Sometimes we stop for making pictures, a coffee or a cigarette. Marie is a French girl who works as a painter for exhibitions or movies and Martina is a chef for fine dining in the alps. Nevertheless our food mainly consists of toast with peanut butter and hummus. The sunset at west coast is must see. It is beautiful how the sun is going down into the sea. We sleep on a campground next to the sea. Luckily an old German couple let stay us on their place for free because the campground is full. The next day we have even more luck. I ask in Santa Barbara a group of people playing Frisbee. They offer me to sleep on their ground. Excited we drive to the place and ….

My Hut

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Garage

Everyone needs a garage to be creative was one of the lections of Jeff. Personally I think it is a large playground. There are beautiful designed houses or rather huts all over the place. They are artists. We drink beer together in there bar and eat dinner together. In the background lay the silent mountains. We enjoy our diner together with the wine and listen to the stories from Jeff or Thomas who works in the non-profit organization industry. I can sleep in one of the huts instead of sleeping in the car. The next morning before leaving we explore the huge area. Then we visit Jeff the architect in his office. Marie uses the time efficiently but Martina and I wants to leave. We stop on the way at Malibu beach. Then we get stacked in the traffic of Los Angelos. Marie drops her luggage at her cousin’s place before she wants to drop us at our hostel. But well…rush hour is too heavy and she is afraid that she brings the car too late back therefore she drop us at the car rental company at 5 pm regardless that we have a lot of luggage. We have no idea how to come from the airport to Hollywood or if the hostel we want to go has space for us. Undoubtedly the public transportation in Los Angelos is one of the worst I have ever seen in the world. We arrived at Hollywood at 8:30 pm. The wanted hostel is too expensive and so we walk back the walk of fame to a really shaby one which costs still 40$ per night. After seeing the walk of fame the next day (please do not expect too much from this walk with many homeless people on it) we are heading to Venice beach. Another two hours and three buses later we are at Venice beach which seems the place to be. You can smell the Californian life style. Many surfers and skaters are at the beach and from the window of our hostel we have an incredible view at the sea. People are exercising (i.e. swinging rings, slacklining) at the beach, I join them but I can feel how untrained I am especially in compare to them. I enjoy the beach, the Santa Monica Pier (it is the famous pier including a fun park) and the street art. I meet cool people in the hostel and we cook together. The next day Martina and I rent a camper van and drive towards Las Vegas. The other option is see nothing, save money and go to Mexico.

 

Let the camper life begin

Camper Van

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Finally I m really happy that we rent the camper because everything is in it, a bed, a gas stove and we buy a lot of food. The people who know me know that the last point is really important for me. We make a short stop close to the Hollywood sign with a beautiful view over Los Angelos (Glendale parc), see the Paramount Studios and heading then towards the desert.
Although the strip is only one road Las Vegas is huge. But it is hard to describe therefore I will show you more pictures. Las Vegas are big casinos, hotels, crazy people, art and a lot more. However it is expensive to have fun there. We get lost in an casino and have to walk 20 minutes to go back all around the casino.

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How to run through the Grand Canyon

The next day we arrive at the Grand Canyon and I m surprised because it is surrounded by a forest which is the environment for mountain lions, coyotes and wolfs. I expected that it is too dry but we are on 2000 m over the sea level which I only can guess is the reason for more rain and colder temperatures. The Grand canyon consists of many smaller canyons. The Colorado divides the Grand Canyon in a North and a South Rim. It is huge. The difference between highest and lowest point is over 2000 m and in summer it can have 41° degree inside the Canyon. After a short information trip in the visitor center I decide that I want to run down and up at the same day which are at least 26 km. Martina and an old wise native American have their doubts but I think I know what I can do. The Native American is very kind and borrow me a head lamp just in case that something happens. I pack my backpack, plan where I can get water and which way I want to run. The next day morning is really cold and thus I sleep one hour longer before I make myself ready for the adventure. We leave the wonderful camping place under pine trees and I enter the Canyon at 8:04 am. 3,2,1, go. The first kilometre I feel completely free, it goes down and it is the first time after almost one month that I run again. I pass a tourist group of mule riders and run again. It is more difficult than expected because of the stones which build a kind of stairs and additionally I can feel the altitude. Furthermore if I m honest I m not in the best shape but anyway I want to do it and I have the whole day, Martina wants to fetch me at 4pm. After 20 minutes I take of my jacket and beanie and continue running. Down Down steep down…so I reach the Indian Garden and eat breakfast: fresh water and a peanutbutter toast what else, we are in the states ;-). In the Indian Garden are trees, a small stream and many other plants. It is like a little oasis. I follow a stone path. Besides a little bit under the path a small stream flows quietly. The way is changing and it is exhausting to run in the sand. It is amazing how quick the Grand Canyon is changing. Almost after every corner it looks different. I overtake a few hikers and accelerate a little bit. One runner comes up the way (he is the only one I see at this day). I cross some smaller streams and suddenly after the next corner I can see the Colorado river. I enjoy that I arrive so fast at my target. I cool down my body(only legs) at the Colorado river which is in average 8° degrees the whole year. At this moment I know that someday in future I want to make a boat trip on the Colorado river best with a kayak. I meet an American who works for BASF and recommend to go to the Phantom Ranch which is another 5 km away. It is early 9:45 am so I decide to do it even if it means that I have to run in total 36 km today. In opposite to my expectation the way is not flat and it is very sandy. However I m fast and I reach the famous hang bridge over the Colorado. At the Phantom Ranch I think about running up a different way because I can feel my muscles are a little bit tired. Taking everything in consideration like no water a steeper way and only rocks I decide to run the Bright Angel way also up. On the way back I can feel how my muscles do not want to work anymore. They want to have gels and minerals and not only water. Hence I start walking fast and only run if it is almost flat and not sandy. When I cross a river I put my scarf into the cold water to protect myself against the sun and cooling my body. I arrive at the Indian Garden at 11:30 am and start eating and drinking. I have a lot of time until 4 pm but I become ambitious. Thus I want to be up at 2 pm. I sleep shortly and drink a little bit more before I leave the Indian Garden at noon. At the beginning it is flat but the more I walk the steeper it goes. I know what expects me. I am no thirsty in particularly I do not want to drink water and my body is screaming for gels and isodrinks now which I can not offer. Thus it must go without because give up is no option no never. I concentrate on the different layers of the Canyon which have different red colours and remember me what I have done in the past like the “Sausteig” at the Königssee or the Ultratrail (100km, 5400 hm). I continue and reach the first resthouse and after a while also the second but I m really tired now. I freezing now and wear a jacket because mostly I walk in the shadow. I concentrate only on myself. I can feel the altitude again and take some sugar and electrolytes which are almost my last option. Now I only walk slowly, I still overtake people but running or fast is completely different. Finally I reach a natural stone gate and leave the Grand Canyon. Happy but really tired I bring my head light back to Glen, the wise old Native American. I enjoy the sun, fill up my water bottle. We talk about life as a Native American today and in the past which is very interesting. After a hour he has to work again and we want to meet for sunset. After sleeping an hour my lift is coming….
Here some impressions:

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How I almost get arrested in Los Angelos

After nine days in the desert we are back in the civilization. First we drive to the Beach in Laguna Beach. Now we know where the rich people of LA live. It has beautiful beaches and the houses in Kronberg are small in compare to this one and I ask myself what are these mass of people working. After cooking at the beach we enjoy one night as close as possible to these people but we are still on the street. Anyway it does not matter because we are in our camper van. After spending a whole day at the beach we are heading to the Griffith Parc again to see Los Angelos at night and discover the interesting observatory there which is one of my favourite places in Los Angelos. However I still do not like the city which is horrible if you do not have a car or if you go from one place to another it can take you hours. On the way back to the rental company we stop in a normal area and decide to cook and sleep there because the traffic is still bad in the late evening.

The next morning when eat breakfast an old woman who looks for me similar to fat mama from the movie. She asks us if we are homeless and what we are doing here. We explain her our story that we are just on the way to the car rental company and that we take all rubbish with us when three police cars drive towards us with high speed and police officers come out of the cars with batons. We are a little bit shocked. I see myself handcuffed but we stay quiet and explain one of the police man our situation. Quickly we can convince him that we are not dangerous or rather uncooperative. Hence we can go or we should go quickly. Unfortunately he has noted our names before.
Four rules to handle with the police in the States:
#Rule1: Be Honest
#Rule2: Do not panic
#Rule3: Be friendly
#Rule4: Be helpful and open to the police

At the escape van rental company we drop the van and get some information how to get to the bus stop to catch the bus to San Diego. Undoubtedly it is an eventful morning because we miss one bus and thus we have to wait two hours which mean we would miss our bus to San Diego. Therefor we try hitch hiking which is semi successful, maybe also because of the area. (It looks not so safe) Then I go on a parking lot and ask people. One black woman called Lynn try to help me and figure out which bus I can take instead. It is not easy because public transportation in Los Angelos is maybe one of the worst in the world and our bus stop is almost 60 km away. She offers to give us a lift to the next bus stop which we gladly accept. By the way she has to go in the opposite direction and she called her husband to find out which bus is the right one. As if that were not enough she do not drop us at the bus station because she think the area is not safe therefore she drives us all the way to the Union Station in Los Angelos which is at least 40 kilometres away. I m speechless. This is one of the examples I experience during travelling which return my faith into the human kind. Thanks that such people still exists. In San Diego in the hostel Azis a young Arabian guy invites me for dinner. What an eventful and great day. I m grateful and happy to travel and meet those people.

The person in this picure gives me also a lift in a huge outlet store. Unfortunately I cannot provide more pictures to this short part of my journey.

New York, New York

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Crazy this city! I arrived in the darkness, it rained and it was foggy. Leaving the airport and taking the subway into the city directly into the heart of New York: Manhatten. So now I m hear leaving the subway station second avenue to find my couchsurfing host. I m wondering why I have to take the bus to the address because Chris (very nice old woman with a dog Blacky) told me 2 minutes walk. I arrived in front of the United Nations and of course no Chris is living there. So I asked people but nobody wants to help me. Normally everybody is helping you in New York. So I knock on a window and a security man comes out asking me how he can help. I describe my situation and he goes in to call Chris. He does not understand everything but he tells me that I have to go to Houstan street. Ok I know where it is now and yes at the bell is her name I m very relieved because sleeping on the sidewalk is no option in New York. India is everywhere in her flat. I think Buddhism has a great influence on her and we talk about her spiritual experience there. Very interesting! She helps me a lot and is very hospitable. I will go for a walk with her dog a few times in the next days. Only bad that is raining in these days. 😉 Sleeping on the roof of a house is also a new experience for me which I really enjoy.

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Only the mosquitos are a little bit too aggressive and so I have a lot of bites in my face the next morning. But nothing can stops me from discovering this amazing city.
New York City Urban Exploration
I start in the South Chinatown, little Italy, City Hall, Brooklyn Bridge, Financial Center, World Trade Center and take the ferry to Staten Island to see the Liberty statue. Afterwards I continue my exploration with the Union Square, Madison Square, Empire State Building and Times Square, where many masqueraded artists are. Finally I see the Rockefeller Center, the Central Parc and the Bronx including the Yankee Stadium.

Man with a big bat

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New York you can say many things about it but personally I like the mix of cultures there. I have never seen a place with people from more different cultures and backgrounds the fashion is very diverse and if you need help you can ask anyone and mostly they help you. I love the yellow taxis and the architecture of the houses with the fire ladders and the churches which not always fits into the cityscape. At many places you can see the luxury of the building but next to it you can see old technology like in the subway stations. Times Square, I have never seen more screens at one place which attack my brain with information and advertisement.

Times Square in NYC

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A little bit disappointed I have been from the Bronx and the Central Parc I had a different image of it. On the other hand the Metropolitan Museum of Art has positively surprised me with its diversity of art. I think from every continent you can see art there. I only can recommend to go there. In addition the ticket price is not fixed you give a donation which is up to you. Finally I have an advice for you, have you ever been in a huge city and you are too lazy to walk around, or maybe it is raining or you have seen the most famous attractions so next time just take the next bus and look out of the window that is what I have done at my third day and you discover also the small places and secrets of a city.

Iceland 2014

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I arrived on Iceland at the afternoon. When I m leaving the airport I can feel how the cold air goes under my thin cloth. However I do not care, my complete attention is focused on the impressive landscape. It is a mixture of tundra and volcanic landscape. When I buy my busticket I get my first shock, the prices for transportation are extremely high. A bus ticket from the airport to Rekjavic costs almost 2000 ISK. However I will fall in love with this country. The beautiful landscape and the kindness of the Islanders are gorgeous. When I want to book my first trip in Island the woman from the hostel give me the advice to try hitch-hiking or to call the man on a paper who is looking for people to share a car and costs for petrol. Perfect I arrange it and the next day my first trip “The Golden Circle” route starts. We are driving through a landscape which reminds me a little bit to the Drakensberge in South Africa but it is still different because in the next moment it is tundra like in Russia. I can only repeat me. We arrive at the first attraction the Thingvellir National Parc where the two continental plates come together and the first parliament of Iceland was founded. From the information center we have a beautiful view on a lake behind which is reflecting the sun. However the thermometer say it is only 4 degree celcius. The next attraction is a geyser. You can smell sulphur in the nose which comes from the multiple hot springs around the geyser. It is getting colder and colder and we drive further to Gulfoss a massive waterfall.
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The cold water is whipped into our faces by the wind. Behind the waterfall you can see a glacier far away. On the way back we are have a beautiful sunset but the northern lights we can not see. The next day we do a trip to the glacier lagoon Jökularson at the south coast 330 km away from Rekjavic. On the way we see beautiful waterfalls (smaller than yesterday) but we can go behind it. The other one is in a cave. Have you ever seen a waterfall in cave. If you want to see one I can recommend to bring your rain jacket with you. 😉 It is getting wet inside. After the waterfall we have done a little hike and continued our road trip. Another highlight is one of the most beautiful beaches on Iceland: The beach in Vik which consists of lavastone sand. It is very fine and completely black. In the sea are small rock formations. Finally we arrive the glacier lagoon and are only impressed. I have never seen a iceberg before but the different colours especially the blue in the icebergs is …sorry I do not find a word to describe it. We just stand there and have done nothing until we saw the first seal. We tried to come closer but it swims away so we decided to do pictures. By the way have you ever heard how it sounds when a part of a glacier falls into the sea. Incredible. When we drove back we tied again to see the northern lights without success but we agreed that because of the view on the icebergs and the glacier the long drive was worth it. With a large package of memories I will leave now Iceland heading to New York.

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Let´s get ready to rumble

Just arrived at the airport. It is now time to say goodbye to my life in Germany for a long time.Saying goodbye to my parents was really difficult but now I m through the gate and feeling quite excited.
My plane to Iceland is waiting for me outside. I can feel my heart going faster. And I m ready for my big trip. No idea where I will be in three month. However I m sure it will be an awesome trip.
Hope to keep in touch with you with this blog. I will write from time to time and I will also upload some pictures from my trip. At the end of my first post it is just to say. Next stop Iceland.

How to prepare a long term trip

Starting a world around trip need a lot of organisation in advance, so you must prepare your travel equipment, get all required documents and most obvious you have to do a lot of research to know what is interesting and where you want to go. Otherwise you start travelling wothout plans which is on the one hand exiting but on the other hand very unsafe. In the next step you must book the flights. One of the most important steps to save money.

At the moment I have a rough route for my trip in my head. But I will let you know when I know more. Maybe I just follow my own travel flow. It is cool for the first time of my life, I do not have any time pressure when I m travelling.

Part of my new equipment will be an ereader: I have decided to buy the Pyrus Mini from Trekstore because it is small and has a strong batterie, so I can read a lot, if you have book recommendations please let me know.
In the next weeks I will write a complete article about what is necessary for planing and doing a long trip including my actual pack list.