The Long Way to Colombia and Caribeean Flair

Reading Time: 3 minutes

My destination is Colombia. However the largest challenge is to decide how to go there. In order of many cocaine farmers there is no way overland. Hence I can take a flight, a sailing boat, a speed boat or the new ferry. I decide myself for the new ferry due to the lowest price (108$). It is a mix of cruiser and ferry and leaves from Colon which has a reputation as one of the most dangerous cities in Panama. Obviously it is true. I get one of the last tickets for a seat but unfortunately it is at Christmas’ eve. The trip itself is cool. Instead of sleeping in one of the small seats I sleep on the floor which is for me more comfortable. Although it is not as bad as it sounds, I am happy when I arrive at Columbia after 17 hours. If you have questions about the ferry you can contact me. There is also an office of the company Ferry Xpress in Panama City but you should reserve a ticket in advance.

Cartagena: I arrive at the afternoon. It is really hot and I can feel the sun on my skin. I am happy that I have already booked a hostel thus I do not have to search one. Everything is crowded. I do some sightseeing and it is really nice. I have seen many colonial cities before but Cartagena is still different. Furthermore at night it changes into a Party city. There are many good places to hang out and enjoy a drink and the Caribbean flair. Beside the beautiful old center there are also many beaches in the close environment of Cartagena.

Although I like the charm of Cartagena I am curious about Santa Marta or rather the National park Tayrona. A friend calls it “small Paradise of Colombia” and I can only agree. I decide to hike first and relax then on the beach. Surprisingly no other person is interested in the beautiful hike. Hence I have the whole jungle for me and I do not see any persons in the next two hours. Have I said that it is beautiful? I notice how my body wants to run again and finally the day is a beautiful mix between sport and relaxing on sandy beaches. Although it is high season there are still many free places on the beach where you can read your book, snorkel and swim in the Caribbean sea. You feel you want to go to Tayrona, then you should bring sun crème, water and mosquito repellent with you. You need it. 😉

Medellin – Once the most dangerous city in the world

Reading Time: 2 minutes

After 16 hours in the bus I arrive in Medellin. After having one of the worst travelling days by bus from Cartagena to Santa Marta (instead of 4 hours 9!), I am surprised of the comfort in the bus even free Wifi is available and the seats can push far back. A little bit tired I arrive in Medellin. It is surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery. It is also called ever spring city due to the same pleasant temperature. It has same fancy buildings and the public transportation is fantastic. There is a metro line from north to south and cable cars connect quarters in the mountains. The reputation changed completely after the dead of Pablo Escobar, the rich drug lord who ruled the city. At night there are many lights and I feel safe walking around. What is to do in Medellin?

• Visiting the city center including Plaza Botero and the Museum Antioquia which has many pictures of the famous artist Fernando Botero
• Taking the metro and see the city
• Going up the mountain to parque Arvi with the cable car and come back through nice villages by bus
• Pueblito paisa, imitation of an old town in the center on a hill
• Check out the amazing nightlife

Around Medellin there is also much to do. For example I visit Guatape with the rock el Penol. It is a 220 m high monolith surrounded by lakes which are embedded in scenery which reminds me to Scandinavia. The monolith is two hours away from Medellin. Just take a bus from the North bus terminal. There are also many Colombian tourists and I am always impressed by the openness and friendliness of the Columbians. If they see you are alone they just start a conversation with you and show you the city.

Bogota – Celebrating New Year in a Ghost City

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Bogota: 9 million inhabitants and a ghost city at the same time? How does it fit together? Ok here is my story:

I arrive in Bogota at the 31 December to celebrate New Year here. The city itself is huge. Thus it takes almost 1 hour from the Bus station to my hostel in Zona Rosa by metro bus. Zona Rosa is usual a hot spot for students who want to go out. However it is not today. While I am arriving at the hostel, the owner tells me that everything is closed. Unbelievable that there is nothing going on in a capital, I have to proof it by myself. Fortunately there are four other guys at the hostel, which also did not know it. I convince myself on a sightseeing tour through the city that really everything is closed. How does it come?

Everybody is leaving the city to go back in their towns and celebrate with their family or they go to the beaches. Hence a friend from the hostel and I can visit the city without people. The queues are extremely short and it is very relaxing to walk through an empty historic quarter or going up a mountain in a cable car and enjoying the view over Bogota. Furthermore I am glad to meet a friend from India who show us places away from the touristic parts. Additionally you can learn much more about a country if you hang out with locals. Thanks again Alejandro! Now I know and understand much more about Colombia and South America.

Fortunately we are told that there is one place (really only one) where is a concert and a little party. Hence we decide to check it out. It is quite nice but ends early. Tired from the day and the dancing we return to our hostel but it is closed. In order to come in there is a note with a number left. Regrettably we do not have a phone or a Columbian sim card. Although the streets are empty, we can stop some police men and ask them to call the number which is quite a challenge to explain our situation in Spanish. Finally the owner comes and we can go sleep. What a different start in a new year.

Cali – The Capital of Salsa

Reading minutes: less than 1 minute

Cali had the same reputation like Medellin. There was a rivalry between the two drug cartels in the two cities in former time. Today it is the third largest city in Columbia with some nice areas including viewing points over the city and quiet parks to hang out and relax from the hot sun. For example I enjoy the heat again in Cali, especially after the cold weather in Bogota. Furthermore you can see everywhere interesting and stylish graffiti.

Graffiti art at the ticket office of the stadium

What are the top activities in Cali?

1. Dancing salsa in one of the various salsa clubs
2. Relaxing in the parks
3. Walking up the hill to 3 crosses or to the statue of Jesus
4. Taking salsa lessons
5. Visit Cali for the Feria de Cali, a folk festival in December

Personally, I am totally impressed by how the people can dance salsa. If you have never been in Colombia on a salsa festival, then Cali is a trip worth. The people swing their hips independently of age, looking, religion, race, gender. All this does not matter. It is amazing. Everyone is dancing and the feet and bodies move extremely fast. Furthermore the people are also really friendly and open; they just start talking when you standing somewhere and are curious where I come from or give me advice where to go.

Ecuador – How It Is to Work in the Jungle?

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Before my trip I heard from some friends about an environmental project in the jungle close to Tena. Due to my wish to work in South America and learn more about the way of work there as well as live in the jungle for a short time and meet natives this project sounds exactly what I am looking for. Hence I applied and now I am in Tena, the door to all kind of treks and trips in the jungle of Ecuador or rather the amazon area.

What do I work? My tasks are various but here a short selection:

• Measuring the area of a tree (Beißer) plantation with GPS and a measuring tape.
• Planting Beißer (trees)
• Maintenance of the paths
• Break down old buildings
• Cultivate the soil

Some interesting facts about my work to have an impression how it is to work in a jungle:

• Working 7 hours per day from Monday till Friday at a tree plantation close to Misahualli or at a research station close to the Llanganates Nationalpark
• At the weekend you can do excursions to caves or canyons especially for outdoor fans there are many activities
• There is no electricity in both stations and no water in Lisanyaku however there are two rivers where you can take a refreshing bath
• Working language is Spanish
• You work with natives together
• Always take mosquito repellent and sun crème with you
• It is not always hot in the jungle especially at night or while raining a sweater is necessary
• In Lisanyaku are not only snakes and spiders there are also Andean bears, woolly monkeys, mountain tapirs and pumas which is only a small selection of the various animal species.

As most times in life there is not everything perfect. Thus for example one week I m the only volunteer in the rain forest because everybody else is travelling. However also this has advantages. I used the time to read and improve my Spanish. Although it can be helpful to understand yourself better if you are alone, I am happy when I meet the other volunteers. It is a cool group and we have a lot of fun together. Especially Lisanyaku which lies in a proper jungle is a little paradise if you are looking for a quiet place. I m also deeply impressed how diverse the nature is there. The native people also called Quichua know many plants they use for medicine. At the beginning Quichuas are mostly reserved but by the time they become more open and communicative. Furthermore in the base in Tena there is a Papaya tree which supplies me with fresh papayas. I will always connect this fruit with Ecuador because it tastes so good here. In conclusion not everything worked as planed and the work in Ecuador is for sure less efficient than in Germany but I had a good time in the project and learnt a lot about myself.

Aventurous Jungle Hiking in Ecuardor

Reading Time: 3 minutes

As you know I m in the jungle for work but today it is time for hiking in the jungle of Ecuardor. In order to work and with regard to the rainy weather my two Quichuan colleagues want to stay at Lisanyaku. Actually they advise against the hiking tour because of the high water levels of rivers (it is rainy season), the wild animals (bears, pumas, snakes…) and because it is difficult to find the way. However all this facts are challenges which have led me to do it. One of the natives draws me a map with paint made out of berries.

I start my hike armed with only a machete, bath suits, a shirt and gumboots. One of the native shows me the way until the river where I have to pass it. According to the high water level I have to pass it with a ropeway made of a wooden triangle. The machete is fixed with a vine and I pull the rope. Together with the help of the native I cross the river. Unfortunately I have no camera with me but to give you an impression I show you some pictures from the way taken by other volunteers another time.

Now I am on my own and move forward carefully to find the way. One the one hand, this hike (alone in beautiful untouched nature, surrounded by animals) is exactly what I always want to do, but on the other hand I am also afraid because it is a strange and partly dangerous environment. From time to time I mark the trail by scratching symbols in trees and other wood. Furthermore I beat wood because I have heard that it repels snakes. I see birds and butterflies, cross small rivers and much underbrush. The small path goes steep uphill and finally I see a sign that I m in the Llanganates Nationalpark. I ask myself how much time is passed but I have no feeling for time anymore. I often have to use the machete to cut the trees to open the trail. Suddenly a window in the trees open and I have an awesome view over the surrounding mountains covered by an endless jungle. It is breath taking. I continue my hike and it goes down. Finally I come to a river. However I must notice that my map is wrong because the river flows in the opposite direction. As a result I walk first in the wrong direction. Then I turn round and follow the river upwards until two small cascades.

Sadly there is not the described rope and I have to discontinue my short climbing trial due to much water on the rocks. Disappointed I return but one the way back (maybe 30 m) I discover a blue white rope hanging down the wall and I climb up the wall. Five minutes later I am standing in front of a beautiful waterfall and my heart is filled with joy. After swimming and enjoying the nature I turn back.

My life of ease ends suddenly as I see a snake curled up in a ball directly on the tight trail. I steer clear of the snake with a drawn machete and observe the snake afterwards: “Live and let live”. Subsequently I look everywhere for snakes and due to my marks at trees I get lost infrequently and reach the river safely. Despite my doubts to pass the river alone with the ropeway is easier than I thought. Proudly I arrive at the research station Lisanyaku. Regarding my description the natives tell me that I saw a lance-head viper one of the most poisonous snakes in the area.

Learnings:

• You can achieve everything you really want with brave, optimism, confidence
• Live and let live
• The beauty of a jungle hike
• Sometimes you must go back before you go forward
• Orientation in the jungle

Travel in Ecuador: from Jungle to Desert

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Travel in Ecuador from Jungle to Desert, yes I feel that I have to write about the country I spend the most time so far, especially because firstly I did not want to visit it. It is underestimated and most of the people only know it for the fascinating Galapagos Islands. Lying between Colombia and Peru, Ecuador has only 283.561 km² and a population of around 15 million people. However the diversity for such a small country is impressive. It offers everything from Jungle over the mountains in the Andes to beautiful beaches at the pacific coast. Relating to the different landscapes you can find all climates there. The people are less open than in Colombia but it is interesting to see the different cultures like the Quitchuas in the amazon area and other native groups in the Andes region and at the coast. My impression is that the people are more traditional in that country and the influence of the church is strong. Besides my volunteering project and visiting my relatives there, I also travel around:

• Quito
• Tena
• Banos
• Latacunga and Quilotoa
• Puerto Lopez
• Los Frailes
• Cuenca

There is too much to say or to do at these places to summarize it in one story. Thus I just describe some of my impressions at special places and share some pictures with you. By the way I have a new name here in South America, the people call me Leo because they cannot remember my name. 😉 On the one hand it is really confusing if somebody calls you with another name but on the other hand it is really funny. Who does not want to change his identity for a short time?

As part of my trip in Ecuador I visit Quilotoa which is a beautiful lake on 4000 m. Especially under the week there are only a few tourists here and I use the chance to run around the lake enjoying the beautiful Andean landscape around. In addition I get an impression how the native people live and work today. Personally I think they are still living like 100 of years ago because they still walking around in traditional clothes and together with their sheep.

Another highlight is the Isla de la Plata close to Puerto Lopez. First I stay at a beautiful wooden hostel directly at the beach. It is cheap and clean. However Puerto Lopez will change completely in the next years because real estate investors want to build hotels and resorts all along the beach. After relaxing one day at the beach with Swiss guys I met in Tena, I want to visit Isla de la Plata which is also called Galapagos Islands for poor people. There I can see among others the famous blue-footed boobies. Furthermore I dive to see an impressive underwater world including turtles and dolphins. In the following you can find some more pictures about my trip in Ecuador.

Desert Activities in Peru

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Desert Activities in Peru: The Peruan desert goes all along the coast. I can see it when I look out of the window, it seems endless. After two days of bus rides mostly at night, finally I arrive in Ika, a town surrounded by desert. A tuk tuk drives me to the oasis Huacachina which is famous for their huge sand dunes. I have not informed myself and luckily there are many hostels and it is quite touristy. However there is no ATM and again I have a money problem.

Fortunately there are some cheap deals for doing sandboarding and a tour with a sand buggy. After my experience of volcanic boarding in Nicaragua I am a little bit sceptical how safe it is but it the activitiy number one here. Sadly it is the only activity besides making tours to other places (like islands or flying over the Nazca lines).  They have one thing in common: They are far away. Thus I book the sandboarding/sand buggy tour and are not disappointed. Immediately after my luggage is in the room the tour starts.

The buggy driver starts the engine and the engine wakes up with an aggressive roar. It goes up and down the steep dunes. Sometimes it feels like the sand buggy is flying. The driver, an old man keeps cool. He knows exactly what he is doing. Afterwards we do sandboarding and it is much easier than volcanboarding. The wind blows strong over the dunes. On some hills it is possible to use the sandboard like a snowboard. On other hills I prefer to lie on the board. In compare to volcanboarding you lie on your stomach with the head in the front. It is great fun. In the end we have a beautiful view over the oasis Huacachina and the sand dunes. Then it goes back to the hostel.

Peru: Machu Picchu

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Most famous tourist attraction in South America Machu Picchu:
After travelling to Colca Canyon to see Condors in a beautiful environment, I take a night bus to Cusco, the capital of the Inca culture. Exhausted and hungry I arrive in Cusco. I find a hostel together with some Brazilian friends. Unfortunately my bed is not free therefore I decide to do some sightseeing and walk around in the city and eat in one of the cheap restaurants which offer a menu for less than 2€. The next day it is time to go to Machu Picchu or at least to the closest town Agua Calientes. The expensive train is no option therefore we decide us for a 6 hours bus ride and 2 hours walking along the train treks. The road is hellish and sometimes the minibus cross bridges without railings. Only a few cm away drom the bus wheels is a deep abyss. The trek itself is incredible. Most of the people who decide for this option are backpackers. Despite we leave early in Cusco we have to hike fast along the train trek because our car broke on the way and another broken car barred the tight way along rocks. As consequence the first dish of the day is in the afternoon in Santa Teresa. From Hydroelectrica where the bus drops us, it is a 2 hours walk.

Aqua caliente itself is really touristy and I am happy that I can leave it at the next day. At 4:30 in the morning it is time to start walking to Machu Picchu or rather the entrance to hike up the mountain. It is still dark, cloudy and rains softly. Luckily I meet some people from the bus which have light and the queue is not long. At 5 o’clock it opens and I am ready to run up the mountain. If I am honest I hope to be the first in Machu Picchu because usually it is crowed due to more than 2000 visitors per day. When I arrive at the last entrance to enter the ruins I realize that they open the gate at 6 o’clock and it will not be possible to see it without other people. However the ruins are really impressive even if it is crowded of people.

There are many theories about Machu Picchu and unfortunately there are no scientific documents about that place. One theory is for instance that in former times mostly intellectual people lived in Machu people. It is impressive how much the Incas knew about astronomy. For example Machu Picchu is exactly built at 13° S Latitude. One of my highlights is to hike up the mountain Machu Picchu from which you have a beautiful round view including the ruins. After a short nap, I run down the mountain. It is like a drug and I cannot stop. The sun is shining now. I walk a last time around the ruins before I leave to the bus.

Working in Machu Picchu

On the way back to Hydroelectrica I meet a Portuguese man who cycles three month through South America. Can you imagine to cycle three month in the Andeans?

Although it starts raining now, my mood is in best form because it feels so good to do sport again. Finally we reach the bus station and of course we have to wait for our bus.

Lake Titicaca: The Highest Navigable Lake in the World

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Lake Titicaca:The highest navigable lake in the world! The lake is divided into two parts: One part belongs to Peru and the other one belongs to Bolivia. I am interested in both. Hence I stop in Puno (Peru) to see the floating Islands. A group of Indigenas so called Uros built artificial islands in order to protect themselves against the Spanish Conquerors. Since the arrival of the Spanish Conquerors they have lived there. The Islands itself are made out of reed which grows in the middle of the lake. Yearly they have to put new levels of reed on the islands. Despite it is interesting to see how they live and build the island, it is really touristy. Anyway, the boat trip and the Lake Titicaca itself is the trip worth. Unfortunately the weather is not that good and I am happy when I am back in Puno.

To get a better impression of the lake I go to Copacabana (not the beach in Brasil) which is the base town for trips to Isla de Sol, an island in the middle of the lake which provides beautiful sunrises and sunsets. After a night in a really shabby hostel (no warm water, no toilet paper, no Wifi, no window, no room key…) and two hours by a tiny crowded boat, I arrive at the north of the Island.

There, I must notice that it is not easy to find a room or a bed for only one person, but finally a family has a room for me. (again without Wifi and no shower).The clouds are just lifting and the sun is coming out so I start walking around and visit the ruins and the beach. The view from the hills is awesome. The sun is shining and the rocks shine in different red, grey and sand colours. I can feel that the air is thin. The lake is at an elevation of more than 3800 hm which you feel when you walk up the mountains. In the background you can see the white summits of mountains. It reminds me a little bit to the Lake Baikal. You can feel that the place is energetic and powerful. It is extraordinary. Without hesitation I can say that this island is one of the most idyllic places on my journey. As consequence I stay one more night. While the sun is going down, a group of backpacker and locals are playing soccer on the soccer court. I only watch the game and use the time to talk with some people. At the dinner I meet some Brazilians. Although they know that I am German (and they have not forgotten the World Championship) they share their wine with me. Afterwards, I enjoyed a kind of local festival in the town. The people play music and dance. However it is too cold to stay long and I decide to go early to bed due to the missing sleep of the last days (night buses). The second day I hike on the second highest peak of the island, read and swim in the lake. I can tell you it is cold. I meet a lot of Chileans with whom I play soccer or hang around at the beach after the sunset. Every night it develops a real community of backpackers at the beach and guitars are played. After an awesome sunrise at the third day, it is time to leave but this place I will not forget soon.

What can you do on the Island?

• Hiking
• Visiting the ruins
• Reading
• Swimming (really cold)
• Playing soccer in the evening
• Camping
• Relaxing and enjoying the nature (No Internet)

Learnings:

• Save money where it makes sense
• A human person needs less for life than he/she thinks
• Listen to your body
• You decide if the situation is good or not, it is all in your head
• Accept situations which you cannot change and save energy for the other situation

Additionally here are some pictures of the lake.