New Set up of the Blog

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

Dear Visitors and follower,

I had to set up the whole website from scratch. With regard to limited time issues I could not split the small articles again in the little pieces as I wrote them originally. Furthermore it was not possible to upload all the pictures again. However I think you can find some interesting stories from my wolrd around trip which inspires you. In addition you can find many pictures at my facebook page: Rüde goes Global

If you want to have more information or pictures, then please contact me. I hope you accompany me also on my next trip. Be excited what s coming next. 😉

Your adventurer

Lenard

Germany: Home Sweet Home

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

My dear Followers,

Everything has its time and now it is time for me to go back to Germany. After not getting some visas I decide to fly back home from India. I meet many friends on my trip, I had great and unique experiences. It was an unforgettable time and I’m sure it is not my last adventure. New challenges are waiting for me.

I want to thank all people who support me in anyway like giving me advices, company, a couch to sleep on, and so much more. You made my trip to one of the best experiences in my life. I learnt a lot and I m very thankful for every unique experience and opportunity.

Thank you very much!

I’m looking forward to my next challenge.

Your adventurer

Lenard

Munnar, Mysore and Bangalore

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

Reading Time: 1 minute

At my last couchsurfer’s place I meet a German development worker from Afghanistan. Together we take the bus to Munnar, a mountain village which is famous for its tea plantations. The bus need almost 6 hours for just 120 km. But we have good conversations, therefor the time passes quickly. It is very interesting to listen to stories from travelling and working in Afghanistan.

Munnar is situated at 1500 metres above sea level and surrounded by tea and vegetable plantations. You can see for kilometres only tea plantations. The region is green, cool and almost empty corresponding to low season. We get a nice hotel and have to rent a tuk-tuk driver for the next day because all motorbikes are in maintenance currently. The town is small and a local tailor repair skilful my pants. It is always interesting to see handicraftman in developing countries. The tuk tuk ride is better than expected because our driver is nice and explains a lot (different to most experiences with tuk-tuk driver worldwide). He also let me drive his tuk-tuk and it is a lot of fun. We see monkeys, elephants, a beautiful lake and of course a lot of tea plantations.

The last day we do a hike into the tea plantations and meet the workers there. Only woman are working in the tea fields. Men are working in the factory or as drivers. The workers are curious and want to be in the pictures. I’m also working just for fun on the tea plantations, ok to be honest only five minutes. 😉

My last stop before Bangalore is Mysore. It is very famous for its beautiful palace and I’m still tired from the long bus ride when I arrive at the entrance gate. I pay the 200 Rupees entrance fees for foreigners and then I stand inside. The garden is huge and again I can see elephants. Furthermore it is relatively empty because the palace has just opened. It is a beautiful palace with great ceremony halls; a lot of wooden ceilings with carvings and a lot of marble. Thus it is not surprising that it is one of the most visited attractions in India.

In Bangalore it is time to rest and visit some friends. I also do couchsurfing again and seek insights about the Indian life.

South India: Travelling on a real Low Budget

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

South India: Couchsurfing and Travelling in South India

Reading Time: 4 minutes

India’s diversity is impressive. For sure India is different than all countries I have visited so far; for example 13 different national languages and the amazing variety of food as well as the different religions. This time I start travelling in the South which is more relaxed. However when I arrive in Chennai nothing is relaxed. I do not get any money from the ATMs at the airport and have to hitch-hike to another place. Even there, I do not get any money and eventually after failing to take a bus I take a tuk-tuk. I have a big problem if I do not find an ATM because you should never underestimate tuk-tuk drivers. I’m very relieved when I hear the sound of cash withdrawn. I get money (I think VISA cards are not so accepted).

Balaji is my host in Chennai and together with another couchsurfer (from Germany) we cook Dhosai and Idlis. My Chinese friend Lynn is visiting me for the next days. Hence we cannot stay at Balaji’s place because traditions can be quite strong in India. However his support is awesome. We (three) can sleep in the house of his sister in Kanchepuram where many Hindu temples are located. Then it is time to say goodbye to our new friends. Lynn and I are heading to Pondicherry, a former French colonial city. The French quarter is very beautiful and we enjoy the good French bakeries. Spontaneously, we deciding to do couchsurfing again and are welcomed at Santosh’s place in Auroville. At Santhosh’s place there are many foreign young people. We are getting invited for dinner.

Auroville itself is a community which is founded by Sri Aurobindo. He has the idea to create a place which belongs to nobody and where people from different nations are learning and living together. It is interesting to learn about a different perspective of life and education. It is very open but at the same time I can see even from outside that there is a difference between the theoretical model and the real life. I like the idea of an open society where everyone can evolve and learn as it is best for him. Life would be different without all the different models and I think especially in Germany we forget sometimes that there could be also a different way of life. Anyway, it is impossible to have a proper insight without working in the community. We have not much time and our next destination is Thanjavur with the massive Brihadeeswara temple (Hindu). In order to reach Madurai the same day we take the next bus to the bus station and from there to Madurai. In India even 100 km can take many hours and I can promise that it is always an experience.

In Madurai we only visit the Meenakshi temple but in total Madurai is very stressful concerning finding a cheap accommodation and the strict rules of the temple. I’m happy when we are sitting in the bus to Kaniyakumari, the southest point of India. We want to see the sunset and sunrise there. We arrive early and visit also the small island “Vivekananda Rock” on which a mediation temple is built. Furthermore you can see three different oceans coming together: Arabic sea, Indian sea, and Bay of Bengal. A man shows me where they meet and in fact I can see different colours.

South India: From Kaniyakumari to Kochi

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Today we do not have luck with the buses because we have to change the bus many times. Finally we arrive in Varkala which is famous for its beach and the cliffs. Swimming is not allowed and the cliff is nice but not too special. I would rather say it is very touristy, although it is low season due to the rain season.

So far, we have really luck with the weather. It changes when we arrive in Allebey where we want to rent a boat and go into the backwaters. It is raining a lot and a nice Indian family recommend a place to stay. We are thankful due to the fact that it is already dark and we have had no idea where we can stay.

We meet two other Indian guys Saket and Swabnil who have the same idea with the backwaters. Later I also meet a local Jay who helps me with translating in the hotel. He joins us the next day and we hire a boat because we miss the public boat. Jay is very friendly. He organizes everything and it is almost too good to be true, only the weather does not want to support us. Although it is raining, the backwaters are beautiful and we can see many house boats while Jay is acting as tourist guide. Many women are washing their clothes in the small canals which are also called Venice of India.

Kochi is our last station together. We arrive in Fort Kochi which is a former colonial city of the Portuguese and the Dutch. You can see many old huge buildings; between there are many trees and palms. From time to time there is a church. Interesting are also the Chinese fisher nets. The beach itself is not a very beautiful place due to the amount of rubbish and a refinery opposite. Lynn is flying back to China. Thus I’m travelling again alone. Thank you for the great time with you, Lynn. I do another time Couchsurfing and leave then Kochi to go to Munnar, a mountain city.

Indonesia, Singapur, Malaysia, Myanmar

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

Discover the adventurous side of Indonesia: Flores, Lombok, Gilis, Bali, Java

Reading Time: 5 minutes

After spending one month in the western culture in Australia it is time to dive again into the diverse Asian culture. Street Food, different religions, cheap prices and most important of all freedom shape my life in Asia. I arrive at the airport and avoid the taxi mafia by walking and taking the next shuttle bus and boat to the Gili Islands. Gili Islands are very touristy which is reasonable due to the amazing diving spots. I go diving there for a couple of days and decide at the same time to do a boat trip to Commodore Islands to see the famous Commodore dragons.

I read different reviews and expect not too much. The wooden fisher boat is old and the mattresses are thin, the engines are horribly loud at night and the boat is swinging at night. I forget to mention that there is not plenty of food and there are rats on the boat which nibble at the backpacks. However we (26 backpackers from 16-65 years old) have fun. The crew is nice and the group is great, our guide Sunny is singing and we jump in the water from the boat, snorkel, dive, jump into waterholes at a waterfall and go hiking at empty islands. The sea is rough and especially at one night the boat is extremely moving. One of the highlights is to see manta rays under water, we try to follow them but we fail because they swim too fast. Another time the English man Matt and I are hanging with ropes behind the boat while it is driving. We shortly give up the action due to the strong forces. At night we swim in plankton which fluoridates blue when it touches the body. Another highlight is the big commodore dragons which are only living on two islands in Indonesia. They can be almost two meters long and eat everything (also human including their bones if you come to close). The frightening fact is that they can run almost 20 km/h but they eat only once per month. The boats tour ends in Labuan Bajo in Flores. According to many travellers the dive spots around Labuan Bajo are one of the best in the world. However I want to try it and dive there. It is amazing, the current is strong and the view is more than 25 m. I see manta rays, sharks, turtles and many fish. Nevertheless I notice that I need depth, current or something new to have fun under water.

Bali: I arrive in Bali and stay in Kuta, a well-known place for celebrating. Actually I only stay there to use the good infrastructure for tourists I want to leave as quickly as possible. Hence I want to pick up my new driver licence but due to Buddha’s birthday, a national holiday the embassy is closed. I have to hire a motorbike driver for the day and visit most important tourist attractions in the closer environment. On the following day I get my new driver licence finally and rent a motorbike to see most of bali. I feel like a professional motorbike racer. The traffic is hard and at each site people overtake. It is normal that a truck drives on your lane towards you. It is very exciting to drive again and see parts of Bali where usually no tourists are. With regard to the long distance I have hardly time to eat or drink: Driving, driving and driving. Then I see a police control. Motorbike drivers turn around but I am too curious how the police of Bali act. I have heard many negative things and decide to try my luck because at least I have all required documents. Shortly I also consider driving through it but a police man grasps my arm and pulls me almost down from my motorbike. After showing all required documents and saying nothing I am allowed to continue. In my case I can say that the police are professional and friendly. At night I take a night bus to Java. I have luck to find a driver because there is no public transportation at night.

At 4 am the night bus stops to have breakfast or is it late late dinner? I still do not know but apparently we get a warm meal in the middle of the night. I do not refuse and I do not regret later because some hours later I have to stand for hours at a road and bargain to get a transport to the Bromo national park. The so called public transportation is controlled by a kind of mafia. We have to wait 6 hours and finally we arrive in the town next to the park. We enter the small park through a fence to avoid the ridiculous high fee for foreigners and walk to the volcano. A lot of sulphur steam is blown out by the volcano. The environment reminds me a little bit to pictures of Tibet. In the background you can see more volcanos which are even higher. After some hours of sleep it is time to hike up a mountain to see the sunrise over the volcano Bromo. It is 3 am when we start and I underestimate how cold it can be at night at mountains in Indonesia. I hike higher and higher. My group is a little bit lazy and thus I have to continue alone. Finally I find a good spot to see the sunrise without a mass of people.

Together with 10 friends I meet on the way to Bromo national park I decide to rent a bus with a driver and see the active volcano Ijen. At night you can see blue flames in a sulphur mine there. The trip is exhausting, also because it a big detour. We have to drive the whole day and sleep at night in the bus. At 1 am it is time to start hiking up the mountain which is very steep. Sometimes minors who carry sulphur cross our way. While trying to avoid the high entrance fees we forget to hire mask as a protection against the sulphur steam. Nevertheless we do not return and just continue until we have to climb into the crater down to the crater lake where we can see the blue flames in the sulphur steam. See yourself! Then we have enough time to relax and see the sunrise at the top of the crater. Then it is time to say goodbye to my friends and it is a long drive back to Probolingo. From there I have to take another bus. Instead of the 2 promised hours the bus ride is 4 hours long. Of course economy class and it is not only hot, the people also smoke in the bus which is an annoying combination. Then I take a night bus to Yogyakarta. In Yogyakarta I met a French girl Anais and we decide to share a motorbike to see the famous Buddha temple Borobudur. It is impressive but also exhausting because tons of people want to take pictures with us. The we return to Yogyakarta.

Singapore: The City of Tomorrow

Reading Time: 4 minutes

My plane arrives with delay in Singapore. Normally nothing to worry about but I have just two days to explore the city. Hence I hurry up to come to my hostel and leave it directly to walk through the Arabic and Indian quarter. Especially in the Indian quarter the food is amazing and it looks a little bit like the future of India. On the one hand everything is clean and on the other hand you can see the Indian influence everywhere. I have the feeling that everything is structured and controlled. Instead of street food there are food courts where you can buy cheap food. Additionally there is a very good public transportation system. I m really impressed of the luxury in Singapore. I can see all kind of expensive cars (from BMW till Aston Martin). There are many restaurants and the architecture is very fancy and modern. It feel looking in the future. However Singapore offers more than just luxury, the society is very mixed. Thus you find Indians, Arabic people, Chinese and Western people who live closely together. I visit the Peranakan museum which is about a certain ethnic group in Singapore. Peranakan is used for children who have for example a Chinese father and a local Malay mother. This ethnic group was very important in the beginnings of Singapore because they act as interpreter and had important functions in society.

In order of the modern buildings and shopping malls Singapore sometimes appears very artificial. For example the Sentosa Island consists only of modern glass complexes and it seems that everything has to be fancy. There are cable cars, a leisure park and a universal studio. Furthermore there are many hotels and shops where you can buy buy buy. Everything is focused on consumption. I m not an enemy of consumption but here I feel that it is a little bit too much.

My first personal highlight is the Buddha tooth relic temple. It is in Chinatown and I love the atmosphere in it. It is very good for relaxing and has a beautiful meditation area on the highest floor. Furthermore the museum, some floors below, is very good to learn more about the different kind of Buddhas and the Buddhism. I have not known before that there is more than one Buddha.

My second personal highlight is the area around Marina Bay Sands hotel and the Garden Bay. At night there is a beautiful light show. The first part of the light show is in the Garden Bay (see the picture above) and the second one I can see from the roof top of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. My original plan was to find a solution to relax in the famous infinity pool on the roof where usually only hotel guests have access to. In the end I cannot find a way into the pool. However I find a way to go on the roof for free. I try to take a lift to the Celavi Bar in tower 3 at floor 58. It is a beautiful bar one floor higher than the tourist platform. I have to walk over a red carpet, passing the security and taking a lift up. Providently I traded my short pants for a long one and my flip flop for shoes. Then I m on the roof and enjoy the awesome Singapore skyline at night including a laser show.

Picture infinity pool (first one): worldtoptop

Malaysia: Cities and Jungle Trekking in the Oldest Forest of the World

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Malacca: Without any expectations I arrive in Malacca which is an old trading town. It is on the world heritage list and has a beautiful small old centre including some churches. You can see the colonial influence. After the sultan ruled the city, the Portuguese and then the Dutch followed. Finally it belonged to the UK and you can see the different traces everywhere. For example catholic churches were changed to protestant ones. Today Malacca belongs to Malaysia and the new city centre is mainly Chinese but you also find many Indians including Hindu and Buddhist temple there. Malacca offers cheap and good food. I m surprised to see temples which combine two different religions like a mosque with Hindu influence or a Buddhist and Taoist temple in one building. My highlight is the walk along the river with the beautiful paintings at the houses. In one day you can see everything and try a lot of different and cheap food.

Kuala Lumpur (KL): I decide to do couchsurfing again to dive a little bit deeper into the Malaysian culture. I arrive and I m directly invited to a birthday party of an hostel owner. It is interesting to see Malaysian people become crazy and splashing around with water like children. I think they are usually more quiet but I m impressed how open and diverse Malaysia is because it is still a muslim country. My host Leonard is originally from Borneo but knows a lot about Kuala Lumpur. Thanks to him, I have a great time in KL. Personally KL does not offer too much for tourists except the Batur Caves where you can find many Hindu temples inside. However, I am in KL to apply for four visas to continue my trip. Therefore I spend most of my time with organization and leave the city as soon as possible.

Taman Negara: Only some hours away from KL, you can find the oldest jungle in the world. It is 130 million years old. Except some small villages like Kuala Tahan there are no towns or cities in the national park. I decide to take a three hours boat ride into the jungle. My plan is to do a two day hike in the jungle some friends recommended to me. I buy food and a lot of water because it is so humid. I want to follow the river and sleep then in a shack somewhere in the jungle. Thus I wake up early, eat my last proper meal, take the ferry to cross the river and start walking. My small map gives me an idea where I have to walk to. The good wooden path stops suddenly and I have to continue my way climbing over fallen trees and through the bushes. The way goes up and down with some good views over the jungle. Sometimes a monkey jumps from tree to tree or I can hear a rustling in the bushes. After 11 km I meet some natives who help me to find the right way. It is interesting to see them walking with their blasting pipe. They explain that they go hunting and I would like to join them because I m curious. After 30 minutes I arrive at my planned accommodation which is to my surprise a bird watching tower. I eat lunch and sweat is running down my face. It is so humid and hot. Unfortunately there are no birds and I do not like the idea to spend the whole day without doing anything in the jungle. Hence I decide to walk back the same day and take the night bus to an island. I have to cross rivers. My shoes are totally broken. From time to time I have to remove some leeches. In addition I can feel thorns from plants in my hands. Honestly I am always afraid when I have to grab into the thicket because of snakes. Elephants, leopards or tigers are also living in Taman Negara but they are usually really shy. I am happy to see tourists again because I know I am almost back in civilization. Tired and dirty I arrive back in Kuala Tahan. Astonishingly I am not allowed to take a shower in my hostel. Thus I have to go to the public toilet. After showering, I throw my shoes away and take the next bus to Jerantut.

Malaysia: From the East to the West

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Per Hentian Island Kecil: I arrive with a Mini Van in Kuala Besut, from where boats go to the Per Hentian Islands. The boat drives me to the smaller of the two islands kecil. In comparison with the small island which is for backpackers, the larger islands besar is more expensive and has more resorts. Per Hentian is famous for diving and that is exactly what I mostly do there. In order to do something else I discover the whole islands by walking. There are many empty hidden little beaches. I use the time on the islands to relax and have some holidays. The dives are amazing and with less than 20€ per dive it is by far the cheapest diving spot on my trip. Here, many people stay for a long time on the islands even if you have to spend triple of the price for food and accommodation than at the mainland. In the end I had a really good time and meet some friends from Taman Negara again. If you like diving, then I can recommend especially 3 diving spots: T3, temple and sugar wreck. The last one is an old wreck in which you can dive into (it is not dangerous) and the underwater world is impressive.

Penang: In contrary to Per Hentian Islands, Penang is an island at the west coast of Malaysia. It has also nice beaches but the water is not so clear. However it is also covered by a thick jungle and the main city is Georgetown where mostly Chinese people live. Due to the Chinese and Indian influence, there is much good Chinese and Indian food. With regard to the small Chinese portions I prefer Indian food and eat many times Thali or also called Banana leaf. It means you get three different kinds of sauce with rice as much as you want. Furthermore Penang offers a good art scene. The street art is a good example of it. I enjoy also the Chinese temple. I think the diversity appeals many students to study there.

Personally my highlight happens directly at the arrival in Penang. At the bus stop I meet an Australian couple and Farzam from Iran. After a short conversation Farzam invites us to his beautiful house and drive us around the island in the the following days. We go together to the national park. I have heard a lot about the hospitality of Iranian people and I only can confirm it.

With regard to ramadan, the life in the muslim country Malaysia is very interesting. Most shops are closed at day and open at night. Some are closed the whole time, while at other places (especially where is a big chinese community) most shops are open. I m very impressed how the people survive the hot days without water.

I had again a great time in a beautiful country especially regarding people. Thanks to my hosts in KL and Penang.

Myanmar – From Trains and Humans

Reading Time: 3 minutes

I’m in the air plane from Kuala Lumpur to Yangon and it does not take long and a Burmese man starts a conversation with me. His English is very basic. However I can help him with his arrival card, which is only in English. Myanmar normally does not use the Latin letters and also not the Arabic numbers. Until 2010 a military dictatorship was ruling the country and it has only opened in the last years for tourism. There are still many people who see tourists for the first time. In contrary to the airport, houses and buildings in Yangon look old and you can see many poor people.

Yangon as largest city in Myanmar, offers not too much. Hence I take the night train to Bagan. I buy the ticket for the ordinary class at a special counter where they speak English. Due to the fact that the train leaves in the afternoon, I have a little bit time for Yangon. I decide to see it by the circular train which is a three hours train ride around Yangon and a good way to have a first impression about Myanmar. Many people live in shacks; there is lots of rubbish on the fields and the people are always, really always smiling at you. It is unbelievable. In opposite to other Southeast Asian Countries nobody hassles you. Sure, there are always different prices for foreigners (except for train tickets) but nobody comes to you and it is still relatively cheap. After doing a little bit more sight-seeing and eating a traditional noodle soup I arrive at the train station.

With some help I find my seat (quite hard if you cannot read numbers). Everybody in the train is staring at me. It seems not too many tourists take the ordinary class. An official in civil dress writes down my seat number to record where I’m going. To be honest I’m still a little bit shocked about the train; there is a small wooden bench where hardly two people can sit on and I should sit on it for the next 18.5 hours. There is no fan and it is tropical hot. I risk it and it is an adventure. The train starts and the velocity is impressively slow. However it feels like riding a horse and at the same time being on a ship. I wonder why or what keeps the train in the tracks. Reading is impossible and nobody understands English. Thus I have much time to observe the people and the landscape. The train stops sometimes and one time I use the chance to look for the reason. As a result the machine operator invites me into his locomotive and shows me the devices. Subsequently I tried to see the driver but apparently he is too busy. However the machine operator invites me to a tea which causes the next problem. How can I explain lactose intolerance to a non-English speaker and reject the tea without being rude. Due to condition of the toilets, drinking the tea is no option. Regardless of my explanation, he offers me the tea again. The only option is to distract him and throw the tea out of the window. Hopefully he has noticed nothing. At night I decide to sleep on the floor like most locals do because you have more space. Unfortunately my e-reader breaks because it is so bumpy. I survive the night surprisingly good and arrive safe in Bagan.

Bagan: 2000 Temples, Pagodas and Hot-air Balloons

Reading Time: 1 minute

Bagan is an ancient city located close to Mandalay, the second largest city in Myanmar. It is built between 9-13 century. Until today, you can see over 2000 temples and pagodas and reminds me a lot to Angor Wat in Cambodia.

I decide to rent a bicycle in Bagan. Despite it is monsoon season, I cannot see any cloud. Regardless of the 40 degrees I enjoy to sit on a bike again. Before visiting all the temples and pagodas I decide to eat my first meal for today. I find a nice tea house which also serves some rice and vegetables. A friendly man helps me to order and it is delicious. I love this tea culture because it is so relaxing. Afterwards I ride from temple to temple. Take off my shoes and put them on again and again. During the temples, I observe the people who often wave friendly. Some temples are small, some are big, but they have always one thing in common: There are mostly no other tourists.

For sunset I arrive at a sunset pagoda which I climb up to have a beautiful view over the Bagan area. Usually there are plenty of hot-air balloons in the air. Not today. On the sunset pagoda I meet many tourists and together we enjoy the gorgeous sunset. A group of British and Singaporean decide to eat together dinner. Although we plan to see the sunrise together, we do not manage it. Nevertheless I find another temple I can climb up. Apparently there are no hot-air balloons even on the sunrise. I’m a little bit disappointed but it makes sense that during the low season there are not enough tourists who pay for the balloons. I see the other main temples and have a chilled-out day afterwards. A Burmese man invites me for lunch. The key to the people in Myanmar (like in so many countries) is soccer. We speak quite a while until he explains me more about his country and the political situation, the school system and the job prospects. It confirms my impression about Myanmar that the country still needs many years to develop but hopefully tourism will accelerate it. My next destination is Kalaw to do the famous trek to the Inle Lake.

Myanmar: The Large Inle Lake and Hsi-paw

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I change my mind last minute and take the bus directly to Inle Lake where I meet some friends again. Together we do a boat trip on the Inle Lake. It is fascinating to see the fisher men who use their feet to paddle. Thus they can use their hands for fishing. I think it is a unique technique you only find on the Inle Lake. We are visiting a floating tomato farm and also a silk cotton and reed weaving mill. It is interesting to see the machines which you normally only find in museums in Europe. Furthermore we visit a boat workshop and a cigarette factory. Some of the women are extremely fast with their hands. At another place we can see the long-neck ladies which have rings around their neck which is a kind of decoration. You can find many different ethnic groups along the Inle Lake which makes it very interesting. It happens that even the local people cannot understand each other. Finally we also visit some monasteries and pagodas again before returning to our hotel. Unfortunately we cannot see the sunset because of too much clouds and rain. Due to lack of time the whole group decide against trekking to Kalaw. Instead, we visit a Shan village in the mountains together. We distribute some old cloth or pencils and other things we do not need. The people do not care that the things are old. Our guide translates for us and we see many smiling faces. My personal highlight is a spiritually: We visit a holy cave which we enter with torches. We can explore it a little bit and see bats. After visiting some schools and eating in a monastery, it is time to go back to catch the next bus to Hsi-paw.

Hsi-paw is located in the region where most rubies in the world come from. It is surrounded by areas which are forbidden to enter as tourists. Special permits are necessary. I decide to do a one day hike. Thus I visit a shan village and little Bagan, which has similar pagodas like real Bagan but it is a lot smaller. I am too exhausted from the night bus therefore I do not go to the waterfall and turn around. A friendly old man gives me a lift back to the town where I take a rest. The main reason, why I decide to go to Hsi-paw, are not the treks rather than the train ride to Mandalay which offers an extraordinary panorama view over mountains. For instance you pass the Goteik viaduct which was the largest railway trestle in the world at 1900. This time I take the upper class and am mainly together with other travellers. The seat is soft, big and adjustable. Even though the train is four hours delayed, we have a great time!

Myanmar: Mandalay and Hpa-an

Reading Time: 2 minutes

I arrive in Mandalay, the second largest city in Myanmar. I have heard not too positive things about it. However I want to figure it out by myself. My friends and I have some problems to find the hostel at night. Finally we find it and it is very nice. Due to the fact that it is almost 2 am I do not have to pay for the night. I guess it only happens in Myanmar. My plan is to see the city by bicycle. Before I find a bicycle shop, a local man stops me on the street. Probably because I’m wearing my laungy; the typical Burmese dress. He invites me for a tea and breakfast, I’m curious. Hence I accept his invitation and it is one of the weirdest conversations. I understand almost nothing but it doesn’t bother him. Thus it is a nice experience. He also invites a monk and so we three are sitting in this tea house in Mandalay. After a while I decide it is time to go and eventually rent my bike. I visit some monasteries and pagodas. Afterwards I enjoy the view over the city from the Mandalay hill.

In the evening I ride with two other backpackers to the U-bein Teakwood Bridge in Amapura which is the longest teakwood bridge in the world. Again I meet a local who is English teacher and again I have problems to understand him. He tells me about an ancient kingdom and his life at university. After enjoying the sunset we go back to Mandalay. On the way are millions of mosquitos and it is almost impossible to look straight forward. We are very happy when we arrive at the hostel.

My decision to go to Hpa-an is very spontaneous. Many travellers recommended this place to me and without much information I buy a bus ticket for the next bus. According to some people at the bus station there are fights in Hpa-an at the moment. I’m sure in Hpa-an itself it is safe and I’m right. However the border to Thailand is closed regarding the fights. There are still many fights in Myanmar between different ethnic groups especially for resources like rubies. In Hpa-an I rent a motorbike and drive around. We visit the Lumbini Buddha Garden which is a garden with estimated hundred Buddha next to each other. We climb up the mount Zwegabin and drive then to a cave with many Buddha in it. Furthermore next to it is a small village which is beautiful. If I see small villages in Myanmar it is like travelling with a time machine hundred years back. After lunch we swim together with locals in a river and see some more temples. In the evening we arrive at an older cave where also Buddha and stupas are in it. It is a very peaceful place which invites to rest and relax. However I must explore the cave and it is quite big. On the other side of the cave you have a beautiful view over a river. We haven’t seen a tourist today. Some monks are swimming in the water whole next to the temple and we decide to join them. After watching the sunset we drive back. Unfortunately we have the same problem like in Mandalay there are billions of mosquitos in the air. The road has plenty of potholes. Additionally I have to learn what a real monsoon rain means. Totally wet we arrive at the hostel. The next day I have to pay for our adventure: I have fever and headache but at least I can sleep in the bus back to Yangon.

Australia – The Red Continent

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

New Continent, new Adventure: Australia!

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I have great luck! I have just arrived in Australia and after a quick sight seeing tour through Sydney it is time to leave the city for heading to Newcastle. The background is that I met a couple in Mendoza Ilana and Nate who invited me to spend a weekend with them in the hometown of Ilana. It is suburb of Newcastle and we stay at a friend’s place.

Immediately after arriving we go to the Blackbut reserve where you can see coalas and kangaroos. Usually it is possible to feed them. Unfortunately we come too late and it is already closed. Thus we decide to eat something instead. The people who know me that food can also make me happy. The next day is a big day: Anzac Day, maybe the most celebrated holiday in Australia. It starts early with a dawn service to remember the fallen soldiers in the first and second world war. The location is amazing, directly next to the beach. The sun rises and many people woke up to come here. It is a nice event and I enjoy it. Afterwards we go surfing or rather the group I m with go surfing because I do not have a surf board. Nevertheless I use the chance to take a bath in the sea. In the afternoon everyone goes to a pub to gamble and drink. Australians love gambling and at this day it is legal to gamble in a pub. The game is simple: Three coins are thrown and you choose head or tail. I have luck and win my first 5$. Subsequently we are invited to a houseparty including delicious food. I would stay at each place a lot longer.

I decide to return to Sydney instead of going directly up the coas to see the blue mountains and some beaches in Sydney. In addition I need to plan my trip and internet in Australia is really slow and seldom. I have the possibility to stay at the apartment of Denise, a former colleague who is working there for my former company. Thank you! Some of the pictures are from her blog.

The blue mountains remind me a little bit of South Africa and also of the Grand Canyon. They are two hours away from Sydney and I would go there for hiking but many hikes are not open due to a big storm a couple of days before. The next day I spend at the beaches of Sydney like the famous bondi beach which is touristy but beautiful. Especially the coastal walk from Bondi to Coggee is beautiful. Then it is time to take the bus further up to Byron Bay.

Surfing in Noosa after a Storm

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According to slow internet, I m not able to upload pictures for this article.

Noosa is beautiful; the houses are small, white and clean. There is a lot of nature between the houses and in the middle are rivers. I enjoy walking around. Consequently, I decide against taking a bus and walk to my first hostel which is far away from the center. In addition there is not much to do because it is raining and it is too dangerous to go with kayaks on the river which was originally the reason I have chosen the hostel. I cannot change the weather thus I watch movies with some other backpackers and cook. Nevertheless I always feel a little bit bad if I waste my time in a hostel instead of doing and discovering something. Thus I enjoy the sun and the beach the next beach. Additionally I change the hostel which is pleasant and more like a hotel.

The people are super friendly. The time until check-in I spend by walking along the coast through the Noosa National Park which offers many beaches and the chance to see animals is high. For instance I see a poisonous water snake birds and a coala. The views on the beaches are amazing. From time to time I can see surfers in the sea but the waves are massive due to the storm of the last days. I have to hurry to catch my bus back to the hostel and in the end I have to run. The nice lady from the hostel drives me back and after a short lunch I take the next hostel back to the beach to go surfing. The last time I surfed was in South Africa. It is my second time and I am a little bit afraid of not controlling my board in the waves. I had to ask for the beginners beach and unfortunately there does not exist any beginner beach. The waves are up to 2-3 m high and I decide to stay in the white water. In order of the strong current it is even a fight to go out with the surf board. I like it! In the end I am not really successful with surfing. I think I need some more surf lessons to know more about the technique. Despite I can stand up only a couple of times and fall down directly I have great fun. Then I have to go back to the hostel.

In comparison to South America everything is really early. The sun goes down at 17:30 and most bars close at 24 o’clock. I would like to stay longer but the tour for Fraser Island is booked and the hostel is fully booked out so I catch a bus to the bus terminal.

Before taking the bus to Rainbow beach I need to buy alcohol and it is another first time experience to buy Goon. Goon is a 4 l white wine plastic box for 12 $. I mention this because it is a kind of backpacker culture in Australia especially at the east coast. However, you do not want to know what is in it. Now I am sitting in the bus and enjoy my conversations with a couple of Backpackers. It is crazy how many backpackers are going up the east coast even when it is low season. The next following days I will stay in a bush camp with over 60 other backpackers.

Fraser Island: The Paradise Island of the Aborigines

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I booked a tour with Dingos to discover the beautiful Fraser Island by 4Wd cars. After long safety instructions we can start. Directly at the beginning there are first problems with the car which can be fixed immediately. We take the ferry and are transferred to the Island which consists mainly of sand. The beaches are beautiful but due to the sharks and stingers in the water we are not allowed to swim in it.

We drive along the beach with the cars. It makes great fun even if I cannot drive because my new driver license is still in Germany. I have big luck with my group and we have a good time in the car. In the afternoon we go to a beautiful lake. Fraser Island is one of these places for which you must find new words. It is hard to describe but see by yourself:

The lake is deeper than the sea level and consists of raining water. The sand is very soft. Actually you can use it for a skin peeling. After playing water ball, relaxing and swimming we have to drive through the forest to our bush camp. It is an Aboriginal camp thus we are not allowed to whistle or to split in the fire because it attracts bad spirits. We are told a story in which a German was drunken and whistle and left the camp at night. Then he got attacked by Dingos and climbed up a tree. He fell down and broke his arm and leg. Covered with blood all over his body he creeped back to the camp and need a helicopter. Hence the Aborigines warn us to be careful and nobody of us wanted to risk it.

At our second day at Fraser Island we spend the morning in water pools close to the ocean. When waves come, fresh water sweeps into the pools and it sprinkles like champagne. Thus they are called champagne pools. It is so pleasant to relax in the pools and refresh from the hot sun. Later we climb up a hill to see some sharks. Unfortunately we see only big water turtles. Usually in June it is also possible to see whales. Of course not now, I miss the season by one month like always. After swimming in another lake in the afternoon we arrive back in time for the moon rise. First I thought that it is just a moon but in fact it is a lot more. A huge red moon comes up from the sea. It is bright like a new planet and almost round. If you turn your head you can see a face. It is really impressive.

The last day we hang out at the beach and at a river. However I must have a short bath in the ocean due to its beauty. It makes great fun to do some body surfing but we do not want to go deeper due to strong currents and sharks. Now it is time to go back to the mainland and it feels a little bit like the end of a weekend.

Sailing Tour at Whitsundays

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I arrive in Airlie Beach and it is a small town with two harbors. It is only built up for tourism to the Whitsunday Islands. I arrive in a huge hostel which is unfriendly and dirty. I am annoyed by being charged for everything. However I meet a lot of other travelers from previous stops. One of them wants to go running – it is my first time in Australia to go running. I enjoy it a lot to do sport again.

The next day I go on a sailing trip to the Whitsunday Islands. My boat is the New Horizon and we are a group of 32 young people. Unfortunately mostly are Germans or Swiss. Hence the most used language is German. The first day we just go to a spot where the sea is quiet. The food is awesome and the skipper teaches me about his boat. We can go for a swim and jump off the boat. It is my first time to use paddle boards. All of us have to wear a stinger suits due to the jelly fish. I am a little bit afraid when I first jump into the water with all the animals (sharks, snakes, stingers). At night we see lots of small sharks swimming around our boat hunting.

After a really good breakfast we arrive at the famous White Haven Beach. It is hard to describe, just see the pictures. It is the finest sand in the world. Many international companies are looking to use the sand which fortunately is refused by the national park. We hang around and play water games. It is fun to walk around and feel the sand between my toes. At night we switched off all the lights to see the amazing sky with all its millions of stars.

Another highlight is snorkeling. We have to wait until the small boat gives us a lift to the snorkeling spot. The reef is already part of the Great Barrier Reef and some people also go diving there. The underwater landscape is awesome and the amount of fish is impressive. I see the famous “Nemo” clown fish. Ok to be honest, they feed the fish but it is still impressive to swim in a shoal.

After two exciting days it is time to go back to Airlie Beach and jump into the sea. We get some last minute information about the Whitsunday islands. Then we are ready and head back to Airlie beach. I am only a little bit disappointed that I cannot sail. However in the end I had two great days with a great group, good food and a lot of sun.

Diving at the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns

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After little sleep I have to wake up early to go diving. Like everything in Australia it starts early and in compliance with the German reputation I arrive too early. However I am quite disappointed when I am told that there are only two certificate divers on the boat for today. In the end we are four people but the others have only experienced six previous dives. Consequently we cannot do any fancy dives. The travel agency Peter Pan promised me something different.

Furthermore they asked that I should pay for a guided dive which I refuse. On the other side I cannot go diving alone with a person who has only dived six times. The next idea of the diving company is that the others pay for a guide and I dive alone. In the first diving lesson you learn that you never dive alone. Hence I refuse a second time and tell them I will follow anyway. Finally we do a guided tour at the first dive and I will decide if I am feeling comfortable to guide the second dive without a diver from the company. At least I can say that I have as many dives as some of the people who work there as guides.

The first dive is not special and the deepest is 18 meters. We see many fish but nothing fancy and the dive is pretty easy. You dive along a so called “bumi” which is an underground island maybe at the surface 1 m under the water and at the deepest point it is 13 m. The “bumi” consists of corals which offer an exclusive environment for many fish. Unfortunately we do not see sharks or turtles but the view is amazing and I can get a good impression of the diving skills of the other group members.

The second dive is totally different. This time I can practise my group leader skills. Due to my experience I am feeling responsible for the group. It is quite hard to keep everything under control and at the same time enjoy the impressive underwater landscape. There are many channels through which we can swim. It is just beautiful how the light falls into them and how the corals shine so colourfully. Without any big problems we return to the boat. Afterwards I go snorkeling which is slightly different.

All in all I had a great time at the Great Barrier Reef and sometimes things are a lot better on reflection than you see them at first glance.

Roadtrip Cairns Alice through the Outback

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After travelling along the “East Coast” in Australia I want to go to the centre of Australia to visit a friend. Alice Springs is more than 2000 km away from Cairns. First I want to do hitch-hiking but due to the limitation of time and the long distance I decide to look for other travellers to rent a camper van. Finally I find a campervan relocation which means that a car rental company look for people who drive back a camper van to a certain place. It is for sure the cheapest option and excited I call the people and organize everything. After meeting Reid who has organized the camper van I wait that the group pick me up. I am quite nervous because it sounds too good to be true.

Some minutes after 11 o’clock they arrive in a huge camper van. It is equipped with everything you could imagine, TV, Shower, Microwave. We decide to use only a minimum because we have to clean it afterwards. Our group is internationally mixed and consists of a Canadian couple, a Scottish girl, a French guy, a German girl and me.

The first day we drive to a beach to see Cassowaries which are big birds similar to ostriches. The second day we have to change our route because we cannot drive 150 km unpaved road with a big campervan therefore we have to drive 500 km more. In addition we have bad luck because a stone hits our front window which means we probably have to pay much more money. I wish they have “Carglass” in Australia but in the end the break costs us over 600$ additional. The next two days we drive on long straight roads and come closer and closer to Alice Springs. There is nothing else than our car, the road and the endless desert. From time to time there are cows, or dead kangaroos beside the road. A huge roadtrain sometimes overtakes us or we overtake a roadtrain which can be almost 60 m long. Due to its size they cannot stop and continue whatever is in their way.

We are driving from sunrise till sunset and stop only for lunch, filling up petrol or going to the bathroom. We spend our time by sitting in the bus and play cards, sleep, look into the endless desert and listen to music. All in all it is a new experience to live with five other people in such a small room for 5 days. I think we have great luck to be a harmonic group.

Finally we arrive in Alice Springs. I visit my friend in Alice Springs while the others continue driving to Uluru. On one hand I am sad that the others leave Alice Springs immediately. On the other hand I look back on our great time in the camper van and I am just thankful.

Into the Heart of the Outback: Alice Springs and the Rock Tour

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Why does anybody wants to live in the middle of the outback, why does Alice Springs exist? I ask myself these questions and a lot more. Alice Springs was founded as a telegraph station to connect Sydney with the western world via a telegraph line. The advantage of Alice Springs is that two rivers come together: Charles River and Todds River. However the rivers are dry most of the time in the year. I explore Alice Springs and the environment by bike and have great fun. From Anzac Hill I can see the whole city and a little bit outside of the city, in the desert, I find a good spot to relax and observe a kangaroo family who is jumping around.

The next day my tour to Uluru and Kings Canyon starts. At five o’clock I have to be at a hostel and Laura, my friend from home, is driving me to the meeting point. At night Alice Springs is not the safest place due to many drunken Aborigines. Apparently the receptionist is still sleeping because a bunch of people are waiting for their breakfast. After eating the breakfast the four hours bus ride starts. It is still dark and a little bit cold. Our tour guide Brett is funny and we have immediately a good connection. He is also an extreme sports man who do climbing and apnoea. Furthermore he travelled a lot and knows many stories about the Aborigine culture. I meet a girl in the bus who reads cards and tells me many things about Aborigines. We exchange some travel stories. I m still not believing in the cards and she reminds me to a clairvoyant. However I could learn somethings from her.

The Aboriginal culture is more than 40.000 years old. They are hunters and gatherers. From generation to generation they transfer their knowledge about their culture, how to hunt and how to survive in the desert. Instead of having a written language their stories are passed from mouth to mouth. Depending on the age and personality the elder people introduce the younger more and more into the culture. Aborigines consider “white people” as children. Hence we are told only the first level of culture. Furthermore there is not one language or one tribe of Aborigines. They have more than 140 languages but only 35 languages are still spoken today. The lack of unity is one of the reasons why the Aboriginal culture could not defend against the western one. Today you can see many Aborigines are addicted to alcohol or sniffing petrol. Many of them lost their connection to the nature. We are visiting the Uluru, by Western also called Ayers Rock, which is massive. It is only 300 m high but approximately 6 km deep. It has a high percentage of iron which is oxidised by lightening. Therefore the colour of Uluru is red. It is a very holy place for the Aborigines. We watch sunset and sunrise there and enjoy our dinner.

After seeing some paintings and hiking through the outback we collect firewood. At nights we are sitting around the fire and tell stories. The stars glow extremely brightly and it is possible to see the milky way. At night we are sleeping in swags which are a kind of cocoon of a caterpillar. It is awesome.

The last day it is time again to wake up before sunrise. We pack everything together and drive to Kings Canyon where we want to see the sunrise. The clouds twinkle in different red colours and the stones as well. It is really cool. We are hiking three hours up and down the canyon and our tour guide shows us different plants which the Aborigines use. On the way back to Alice Springs we stop at a camel farm where we can also see dingos and kangaroos. At the evening we eat together and enjoy the end of the evening in the rock bar.

Argentina and Chile

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

Atacama Desert Activities

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One day before, I drove from Uyuni to Calama and then to San Pedro de Atacama through the Atacama Desert: I saw endless red sand, high mountains with white summits, a few canyons, the sunrise and a sunset. It was beautiful. The bus drove through the “valle de luna” (moon valley) because it looks like on the moon. It was the reason why I wanted to go to San Pedro but now I have seen it. Thus what to do today?

Actually I have a plan; I rent a bike and start for a desert tour before sunrise. It is still cold and dark and I am happy about my head lamp which they lent me in the bike rental shop. The asphalt road ends and a dirt road starts. My bike is old and the gears are useless. However it is really adventurous. I am alone in the desert and I am not sure if the way is the right one. The sun rises. It is impossible to describe the feeling when you are alone in the desert and the sun rises. Imagine how you would feel.

Finally the way is right because I see the sign “Laguna Cejar”. This is my first target today and I reach it one hour before it officially opens. 30 Minutes are free (without shower) afterwards it costs more than 20€. Laguna Cejar is a lake which consists of more than 20% salt. Hence it has a higher percentage than the death sea. Due to the high percentage of salt you swim on the surface and can read newspaper or make pictures (like I do ;-)). It is a cool experience.

After a breakfast and a shower at my hostel I ride to my second destination today. It is the “valle de muerte” in the north of San Pedro and has many mountain bike trails. Except a river everything else is very dry. The rock formation reminds me to some places in the desert of Utah (USA). Sometimes I have to carry my bike on the devil trail (I changed the bike into a better one for the second part of my bike tour which was definitely the right decision). I am wondering why I meet nobody. Maybe it is too hot. I follow the trail. Although I have a little map I feel lost. The trail seems endless and finally splits. I start driving on a mountain. Due to the directions and some tracks in the sand I decide for the right way and come back on the main road. What an amazing trail, very tough and lonely. Then I ride my bike back to San Pedro because my target is to get a lift to Argentina today. In the end I fail but this is another story.

A theft in Buenos Aires: A good day for a thief

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Again no pictures and no videos, also no eyewitnesses…Actually I have already written some other articles which I cannot publish anymore but maybe this is even more exciting: Here is my story:

I have just arrived at the bus terminal in Buenos Aires. On the way, I could see some parts of the city. We drove through a shabby area but I was still sleepy. Thus I did not pay attention. It was a long over night bus journey from Mendoza.

Now I walk along the ticket offices and compare prices for bus tickets to the famous Iguazu waterfalls. I find a cheap one-way ticket (80€) and wait in a chair. Eating my sandwich from the last day I start waking up slowly and decide to read while waiting for the bus in two hours. My luggage is next to me and I have a good view to the bus track. Suddenly a woman starts talking with me and gives me some money which is rolled together. She tells me it would belong to me. I wonder and I even wonder more why she is going away so quickly. While I am counting the money which are the smallest bills i look on my other side and see that my black daypack is vanished. I run to the next police officer and explain the situation in a broken Spanish. Instead of doing something he asks me always the same question. I explain him that my travel money for one month in cash (normally I have no cash but in Argentina exists a blue market), laptop, visa card, passport and a lot more were in the backpack and he should do something. Finally I run through the bus terminal looking for the woman but of course, no chance. I ask the people sitting directly next to me, if they have seen something. „No“ Impossible! I feel like the biggest idiot, a victim, I am extremely angry on myself. How could that happen? Me, an „experienced“ traveller….I only hope that the money will be used for education and usefull things, then it is at least a little bit like development aid.

At the police station I called my bank, the embassy and my parents. Fortunately, I have a second passport (which is full and can only be used as identification but better than nothing). I arrange money transfer by western union. My parents are extraordinary. Furthermore a police protocol is important for the bus company, the embassy, insurance if you have some (I do not have one).

Embassy: The woman at the front desk was not very polite. However the woman at the phone and another one I meet later are even more helpful. All in all a good job of the embassy, I get a temporary passport the next day. (Costs: 75€ incl. pictures)

Bank: I block my visa card and ordered a new one. It is not possible that the bank send a new one abroad. Usually you get only a provisory credit card with which you can only pay but not withdraw. In my case this option would be senseless. I have luck that a good friend will visit me soon.

Other documents: It is really difficult to get a new driver license. I hope to get a new one but it will take months.

Finally many people help me in the situation and I can sleep at Malte and Fenna’s place, friend of friends. I am very thankful to have good friends all over the world. Thank you very much! A special thanks goes also to my old company Schenck Process which supports me with a laptop.

Hitchhiking in Chile and Argentina

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Unfortunately, I cannot provide pictures for this story…Anyway after my adventures in San Pedro de Atacama it is already afternoon and I try to hitchhike to Salta in Argentina because the only bus is full. Hence I stand on the road together with two other hitchhikers and soon I realize that it will be difficult challenge. There are no cars or trucks to stop. Only the sun shines without mercy. After a while a truck stops for a break and we use the chance. However there is space for one person and the Argentinian girl has to get her flight tomorrow from Salta. We, two german guys, continue waiting and instead of more trucks more people come who want to hitchhike. Our chances get lower and lower. After 4 hours it gets dark and we give up for today.

The next day at 6 o’clock I am the only one at the road and there are many trucks making a break or the truck driver even sleep. I do not want to stay forever at the road so I knock on the door and finally a car truck gives me a lift. The best is I can sleep in one of the cars which are in the back of the truck. Slowly the truck drives up the mountain pass. I enjoy the view on the red desert mountains, which have all a white snow nose on the top. I see some flamingos. The sun rises more and more and it is really cold in the car. The window is open and we are now on over 4600 hm. I hope it goes down soon.

When I wake up we are at the border and nobody is in the truck anymore. Quickly I leave the truck and go to the immigration office where I meet other hitchhiker colleagues from the day before. The border control tells me friendly that he will not let me cross the border without a vehicle and I ask a Chilean family for a lift. I have luck; immediately they say yes and instead of only crossing the border, they give me a lift to Salta (6 hours drive). They offer me food and juices. More luck I cannot have. We pass salt lakes, high mountains. Then the landscape changes again. Now the rocks of the mountains are green. The deeper we come the more plants grow and becomes even greener and greener. Happy but tired we reach Salta. To find a hostel or supermarket are no challenges anymore.

Iguazu – Massive Waterfalls and the Long Way Back

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I have already bought my bus ticket to Puerto Iguazu (with the massive waterfalls) which is close to the Paraguayan and Brazilian border. There are the broadest waterfalls in South America. The waterfalls are in a national park really close to Puerto Iguazu and lay exactly between Argentina and Brazil. The highest waterfalls are around 82 meters high. The impressive waterfalls consist of more than 275 single waterfalls. Before I can enter the bus to Iguazu my bag is stolen. Thus I have to spend two days in Buenos Aires and a lot of organization work to do. Anyway two days later it is time to get the bus to Puerto Iguazu.

After 18 hours the bus arrives in Puerto Iguazu. I walk to a hostel which is unfortunately full. In the end I find a place in another one and decide to go directly to the national park with the next bus. The park entrance is expensive (around 26€ for foreigners). Due to the large amount of tourists each day the park company built a slow train for transportation in the park. It is funny but very touristy.

First, I decide to see the waterfalls from above. It is beautiful and the amount of water which falls down is incredible. I have already been at the victory falls but here it is almost possible to touch the water and here are a lot more waterfalls. I get completely wet which is not the worst due to the hot temperature.

Second, I walk to some smaller waterfalls which are not so big but there are also less people. Finally, I watch the large waterfalls at the bottom which is a totally different view. If you want to have an adventure you can drive with a speed boat extremely close to the bottom of the waterfalls. In the trees of the national park you can see some birds like the toucan which is a colourful and beautiful bird. In one of the rivers I can see a crocodile. The wildlife is impressive especially for such a crowded place.

Another day I visit Brazil and Paraguay for one day but in the end the best activity is too leave Argentina and get stamps in my passport. The reason is that my new passport has had no immigration stamp from Argentina before because it is issued in Buenos Aires. Now I m sure I will not have any problems at the following borders. At the hostel the people are really nice. I m always surprised of the kindness of Argentineans. We share food and exchange travel stories.

The third day I want to return to Buenos Aires by hitch-hiking. Unfortunately it is not as easy as everyone told me. I wait from 8 o’clock in the morning until 16 o’clock and it is very hot. Hence decide to take a bus to the next provincial capital and try my luck there. After two hours without luck there, it is 21 o’clock. I have sunburn, am hungry and I stand next to a highway where not even the buses stop. I do not know what to do: If I go to the next hostel I do not have enough money for the bus tomorrow and I doubt that I am more successful in doing hitch-hiking tomorrow. I decide to walk to the next church and ask for help. This experience is also an important lesson that sometimes not everything is possible and you need to ask for help. The people help me to find the next bus stop and offer me further help which I refuse. At 23 o’clock I am sitting in the bus to Buenos Aires and look forward to my dinner in the bus.

Ushuaia – The End of the World

Reading Time: 4 minutes

The plane is shaked by turbulences. We are really afraid. Subsequently, we are extremly thankful when the plane lands. The landscape I have seen from the air is incredible but the view from the ground is even better. We (a good friend and I) are just landed in Ushuaia, the southest city in the world due to good marketing. Puerto Williams (a city in Chile) is more south. A friend joins me for one month in Patagonia.

The first day we are a little bit tired due to the flight and the different weather. Thus we sleep for a couple of hours and just walk around in the city. The next day we have big plans we want to hike to the lagoon Esmeralda. We take a bus to the end of the city and hitch-hike there. Due to the fact that we are three people nobody takes us. Hence we split and soon a Chilean guy gives us a ride. He is owner of a sailing boat which takes tourist to Antarctica. Furthermore he gives us an overview and offers us to do a daytrip with him to the end of the beagle channel. The landscape is beautiful, maybe one of the most beautiful places I have been. High mountains, yellow grass fields and green forests, the colours are intensive. Furthermore there are plenty of rainbows per day. It sounds like a fantasy place but it really exists and we are there at the moment.

We exchange stories with the sailor who is originally from the Easter Island and has worked as miner and mechanic for aircrafts. Since 2006 he has lived in Ushuaia and now he lives there with his German wife and child. At night he invites us for dinner and shows us a movie how he sailed around the world. It is really interesting.

The following day we try again to go the lagoon Esmeralda. The weather is not good today: rainy and cold which is typical for Patagonia. However after 40 minutes we find a person who drives us until the entrance to lagoon. We decide to take the smaller path which is free and walk 2 hours. The way is beautiful and empty. We pass beaver’s lodges, yellow grasses and forests. Suddenly after a curve, we see the beautiful green and blue lagoon Esmeralda. Due to the weather conditions we do not stay too long. After eating our sandwiches we return to Ushuaia. An Argentinean woman called Edelweiß who has roots in Italy (which is quite common in Argentina) gives us a lift back. With regard to two men (us) she asks me a little bit afraid but also with a blink whether we would kill her…of course we do not! After walking to a glacier we end the evening celebrating St. Patrick’s day in an Irish Pub.

At the third day in Ushuaia we visit the national park Tierra del Fuego. In comparison to the other two days it is a little bit less impressive but more sporting. In total we walk more than 20 km in the park. I can highly recommend walking the coastline path which offers beautiful views on the mountains as well as the Beagle channel. On the way back to Ushuaia we have big luck. Exactly before it starts raining a couple (on their honeymoon) picks us up and drives us until the city. Obviously, I really enjoyed the time in Ushuaia and I m sure that I will come back one day to go to Antarctica from here.

Torres del Paine – A Pearl of Nature

Reading Time: 3 minutes

After two hours by bus from Puerto Natales we reach the entrance of the national park Torres del Paine. In compare to Bolivia the mountains are small (approx. 3000m altitude). There are two ways in Torres del Paine for hiking: the “W” and the “O” circle. We decide for the “W” due to limited time and the weather. We pay the entrance and have to look an information video, then we are allowed to enter the pearl of nature. The first 7 km we skip by standing on the back of a pickup due to a boring bad road.

At the campsite we meet again a German couple which we have met in the bus before. After having a small breakfast and built up the tent we walk with them up to the “Baso de Torres” which is viewing point at a lagoon directly below the Torres towers. From time to time a piece of ice from the glacier falls down the rocks. The sound is loud like a jet. Very impressive! The way back seems endless. In the evening we use the first time our camping gear and are thankful for some advices from our neighbours. Unfortunately, we only have sleeping bags for summer; therefore it is really cold at night. At the second day we have extremely luck with the weather and the torres towers glow red during the sunrise. We pack together our equipment and start. Although we have to carry our heavy backpacks with all the food, we are highly motivated. The landscape is beautiful. On the right side are the mountains; on the left side are lakes which sparkle in the sun. We pass burned forests, fenlands and grass fields. Then we arrive at our camp for today. We are relieved not to carry our backpacks anylonger. I decide to run up to the glacier which is the right decision due to the incredible view. I enjoy the sun and the panorama. However, the bath in the glacier river afterwards is one of the coldest in my life. Fortunately it is not too cold at night. We wake up before sunrise and leave the camp early. We want to finish the “W” and leave the national park today with regard to the bad weather forecast.

After two hours we arrive at the camp where we want to leave our luggage. The price is ridiculous high for a luggage storage at a camp site (6€). Consequently we continue hiking with luggage. In total Torres del Paine is definitely a more expensive national park than others in Chile. However it is worth to pay the price for this pearl of nature. When we arrive at the first viewing point we divide ourselves and I run alone until the glacier lagoon Grey without luggage. Spectacular! Subsequently I return and we enjoy the last sun rays before taking a catamaran boat back to the bus terminal. We leave the national park while the sun is going down.

Carretera Austral – Wildness, Loneliness and Adventure

Reading Time: 3 minutes

After hiking in El Chalten (around the area of Fitz Roy) we hitch-hike north through 700 km of desert to Chile Chico. We decide to continue our trip at ruta 7 also called carretera austral in Chile due to amazing panorama landscapes. The carretera Austal is approximately 1350 km long and goes from Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Montt. It is the only road in Chile for us to go north. The roadwork starts in 1976 and is still not finished which we also have to experience.

We start in Chile Chico a town at a beautiful lake and have to change our plans directly because there is no bus at Sunday. Hence we take the ferry to another place and take a bus there. The lake lights up green-blue in the sun.

Buses do not go regularly at the carretera austral, sometimes only once a week. Thus we decide again for our most convenient transport type. However we are almost ready to give up when a nice man stops and offers us a lift. Hitch-hiking is the best way to travel regarding my Spanish skills. I practice a lot and learn a lot about the region, the people and the culture. However after the next hike we are really in the middle of nowhere. No cars for at least 30 minutes and the asphalt road stops. We are surrounded by mountains and it starts raining. The wind is strong and I am freezing. Then two ambulance coaches stop. Unfortunately we cannot get a lift because they transport an infected person and we renounce voluntary. Finally, a truck stops and we use our chance. Apparently he likes techno music and speed according to his sporty drive style.

In addition he is chain smoker but he is also a funny and cool guy, so I do not want to complain. The road consists of mud and stones and nothing more. Hence we are really afraid and try to concentrate on the landscape which reminds me to some jungle regions I visited before. After one hour driving the road is blocked (the whole afternoon) because of a blasting to build parts for the new road. Afterwards we can continue our journey. The road goes through a landscape which you see normally only in storybooks. It is impressive. Then it gets dark and cows sometimes run on the road. This time it reminds me to some remote areas in Africa. Distances are extreme in Patagonia. In the city Villa St. Lucia we stayed in the only open hostel which is not more than a ramshackle hut.

The next day it is still raining and due to a lack of a bus we wait for cars. However in the first three hours there is not even one. Can you imagine our motivation? Furthermore there is nothing in the village. We thought we were in the middle of nowhere yesterday but seriously today the situation is even worse. We also need a bank but in the end (in the afternoon) we have luck: three cars later we are in Argentina and enjoy a hot shower and a good meal in the hostel. If I do the carretera a second time then I will ride a motorbike or have an own car. All in all the landscape is incredible and there are a lot of empty beautiful places.

Patagonia: The End of the World

Reading Time: 2 Minutes

It is hard to describe the last couple of weeks. I experienced a lot and spend many hours on the road. I travelled together with a good friend of Germany. Sometimes we had extremely luck, sometimes we had to wait hours on the road. We saw beautiful nature. Sometimes the desert was just boring. One thing is sure, Patagonia is huge and it can be really confusing if you travel 1000 km and the landscape or weather does not change.

How would I describe Patagonia in three words?

Wild Nature Everywhere

Serious, in Ushuaia you have mountains; afterwards there is almost nothing except desert until Bariloche. In Chile there are mountains again like you can see on pictures of Torres del Paine. In the north of Patagonia on the carretera Austral, there are rainforests in Chile (However it is still cold). You have huge glaciers in El Calafate and El Chalten, beautiful lakes in El Bolson and Bariloche. The people are friendly and less afraid of foreigners (I guess they are quite used to them) than at other places in Argentina.

Life in total is very expensive in Patagonia, but there are many outdoor activities and for sure it is one of the most beautiful regions in the world. The most convenient way to travel around is by bus. Unfortunately I could not discover a special Patagonian dish. Maybe I can say that it is meat like everywhere in Argentina. In Chile you can find everything from Pizza to Chinese food. But to be honest most of the time we cooked by ourselves. The nights in hostels are between 14-20€, sometimes they are cheaper and the quality varies from shabby unclean hostels until friendly clean hostels with amazing people.

5 interesting facts you should know if you like to travel to Patagonia:

Only travel to Patagonia if you want to have outdoor vacations
Bring warm clothes with you. You can buy clothes there, but everything is more expensive than in Germany
Calculate with long distances: Roads are not always paved. Thus even small distances on the map can take a long time, therefore you should bring time with you (at least 3 weeks)
Visit Torres del Paine and El Chalten
Bring a lot money with you and use the blue market in Argentina to change money from Euro or Dollar in local currency (Argentinian Pesos).

Travelling in Chile: Nature and City

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Travelling in Chile is special. It is 4300 km long and has a unique position in South America. In the north, there is the Atacama Desert, in the middle Chile has big cities like Santiago and Valparaiso and then you have mountains and nature until the southernmost point. I have already reported from the southern parts of Chile like the national park “Torres del Paine” and “Carretera Austral”.

In the last couple of weeks I have seen that also parts in the middle of Chile are very beautiful. A perfect example is Pucon. Unfortunately the volcano erupted a couple of weeks ago. Thus it is not allowed to climb up to see Lava. However there are many other beautiful places around like the national park Huerquehue. If you climb up until the top of its mountain San Sebastian you can see 10 volcanos and have a beautiful round view. The nature is totally different there. Consequently at the mountain plants are growing which I have never seen before.

Chile has not only beautiful nature, it offers also beautiful cities like Valparaiso which is in my opinion the most beautiful city in South America (I have not seen Rio so far ;-)). At my first day there, I decide to do a free walking tour to discover the city: Valparaiso is a harbor city which welcomes their visitors with beautiful colored houses. In addition it has beautiful spots to observe sea lions or you can go up the hill by using lifts called “Ascensor”. I am also impressed by the elaborate graffitis at the walls. Behind every corner there is something to discover and it makes great fun to walk around in the city. One of the most famous tourist attractions is the house of the famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. From his house you have a beautiful view all over the city. Famous dishes in Valparaiso are “Completo or Italiano” which is a hot dog with Avocado and Empanadas which are buns filled with cheese and vegetable or meat. In contrary to my normal habit to stay in hostels I decide to do Couchsurfing which was a really good decision. At my host Natalia I could experience the Chilean culture.

My last stop in Chile is in Santiago. I m very happy to spend my last days in South America with friends I met in Bolivia. Together with my friends I discover the city by bike and suddenly this huge city (population: ap. 8 million) is not big anymore, almost everything is reachable. I have the chance to learn more about the history in Chile, especially about Pinochet and Allende. For instance we are visiting the museo de la memoria y los derechos humanos which shows impressively how important human rights and democracy is. Many people I met do not like Santiago, but Santiago offers a lot: churches, antique houses, parks, fancy streets which look similar to places in London, Paris or New York. Two of my favourite places in Santiago are the hill San Cristobal and the hill Santa Lucia from which you have nice views over the city and the mountains behind.

At this point I want to thank my friends in Santiago especially Branko and Benjamin for everything they have done for me. I have a great time in Santiago.

Continent Change: Goodbye America

Reading Time: 1 minute

After travelling almost six month in North and South America, it is time to leave the continent. I have seen many places, meet many people, found many new friends and made many new experiences.

I travelled from New York down until Ushuai. More than 11.000 km by linear distance, 16 different countries; hundred of buses and hitch-hikes, and ship, two short flights. I discovered the jungles and beaches of Central America, the mountains in the Andes, the deserts in Peru and Chile, the waterfall and wine regions in Argentina, the beautiful landscape in Patagonia and I am still not tired.

South America is not a continent which is easy and cheap like Asia but also not difficult like Africa. The distances are long; the roads are (mostly) bad. The people are warm and friendly. The travelers are older than in other regions of the world. It is sometimes a little bit dangerous due to more weapons. The attractions are often in the nature like ruins, waterfalls, volcanos. In general I would say that cities in South America are huge and less interesting than the nature it offers. (Of course there are exceptions like Buenos Aires.) Hence there are plenty of activities to do in South America. I can only recommend to figure it out by yourself.

What are my strongest impressions?

I feel that it is unfair to name now single places due to the variety of them. However it is not the activity at one place what makes it special rather than the people I meet. Hence countries like Bolivia or Guatemala where I spent more time will keep more in my mind than countries like Peru or Costa Rica. I want to thank all the people I met on this wonderful colorful and happy continent who have enriched my time here. In order to learn more this continent also shows how a useful a negative experience can be. In the end I have learned to be optimistic and open-minded and everything will come as it should (earlier or later). Trust yourself!

Thank you South America!

Visiting an Active Silver Mine in Potosi

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

Reading Time: 3 minutes

No Joke, it is really possible to visit an active silver mine in Potosi. After an odyssey through Bolivia (La Paz-Cochabamba-Oruro-Potosi-Sucre-Potosi) we finally arrive in Potosi at the late afternoon. This time we find a good hostel and visit the city subsequently. Potosi is a mining city. Thus it is not surprising that mines are the top tourist attraction. How can I visit a mine? Nothing is easier than this. Just go to the next travel agency and book a tour. Yes, serious most of the travel agencies in Potosi sell tours into active mines.

The next morning the tour starts at 9 am and we get our equipment: Boots, lamps, jacket, pants. Then we drive to the miners market to buy presents for the miners like coca leaves with catalyst, 95% alcohol, dynamite (yes, you can buy it without licence here), cookies, cigarettes,…

Our guide tells us why these things are important. In the mines of Potosi more than 1000 miners are working. They are organized in collaborations and work for themselves. Hence they have to buy their own equipment and everyone with a licence from the government can work there, even you and me. The coca leaves are like food for them, they work sometimes for more than 24 hours in the mines. The alcohol is for the devil in which they believe. If they give him something pure he will give them pure minerals. However the job is really dangerous: In average there is one deadly accident per day. The average life expectation is 35 years and sons replace their fathers when they are still children.

I enter my first underground mine. I have worked in the mining industry (dual study program) but something like this would be impossible somewhere else. The mine is tight and very wet. The tunnels are stabilized by eucalyptus wood. We follow the main tunnel. One person exists in every collaboration who is responsible for the stability of tunnels. Sometimes the wood is almost broken then we have to walk faster. There are air chimneys and electricity cables. With regard to carnival the mine is quiet. No miners run around with barrows. There is a museum which shows how it was worked in former time: The Spanish conqueror forced the Indigene people to work 6 month in the mines without coming out. Most of the miners suffer diseases after the first 5 years. Apparently, I can understand it, even now it is not easy to breath. We have to climb up some ladders and see silver veins. Then we reach the exit and are blended by the sun. After the eyes get used to the sun light we have an impressive view on the mountain called Cerro Rico and over the city.

It is time for the second mine, a smaller one, but more busy. Workers run around. We have to make space for them. Despite all of us walk bended over, we are hitting our heads at the ceiling. I can smell the dynamite. From time to time there are holes in the ground. We help a woman to climb over such a hole. Suddenly the others are vanished and we (3 people including me) are left back. We call names and go forward until the next fork. Then we decide to wait. The guide fetches us after some minutes and gives rise to a certain amount of relief. We see miners work and are also allowed to work a little bit. After a short time I return the tools, it is too exhausting and dusty.

The miners use pickaxe, hammer and bucket. Furthermore we visit a miner who wants to blast stones away using the dynamite we have bought on the market. It is totally silent while he prepares the dynamite. A dangerous moment but our guide promises us he is an expert. Well! After preparation he puts the dynamite in one of the prepared holes and we have to go further away. We cover our ears. 1.2.3 minutes are gone and we are still waiting. It has not worked. The miners have to wait at least one hour before they can go back. What an experience? We leave the mine and return to the city, but I can still feel the adrenalin in my body.

Hyuana Potosi

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

Reading Time: 4 minutes

It is hard to write about everything what I do at the moment. There are so many activities in the environment of L a Paz. Hence I focus on the most special activity for me: The mountain Huayna Potosi which is 6088 meter high and is close to La Paz.

Everything starts in La Paz, where I book a tour at one of the various agencies. At a Tuesday morning at 8:30 I am waiting in front of my agency. Everything is closed due to the carnival in these days. Another two people from the UK are waiting on the pavement. A mysterious guy arrives 15 minutes later and asks me, if I am Leo (my name here in South America). He offers me to go one day later, which I refuse, and the problem starts…

I have to wait more hours and another agency is asked to take me to the mountain because the first one has no equipment and no other people. Then the two agencies have to find a price for the deal. My task is to run between the two agencies and to moderate. Finally they find a price but the next challenge is to find a guide and a driver because most of them are drunken (yes really). Half of my first day is over and I am still in La Paz. I am already tired in order to organize my adventure. With regard to different equipment of the other agency I have to buy more things like socks and a bonnet. After spending more money and another negotiation round because I will go only with a guide on the mountain, a funny old Bolivian guy drives me with an even older Toyota to the base camp of Huayna Potosi. Additionally we listen to music from the 80s and I enjoy the mountain panorama with llamas.

Immediately after arriving at the base camp, I start hiking to acclimatise. It is cloudy and in the end I get lost therefore I decide to return to the base camp. At the base camp I find out that the plastic bag of my cloth which should stay in La Paz and the bag with the food is interchanged. The family I stay with at the base camp is extremely friendly and they show me how to use my equipment (shoes, crampons, axe).

The next morning I wait in vain for my guide Efrain and decide to hike alone to the high camp due to the good weather conditions. According to the family the way is easy to find and in fact I make it in less than two hours to the high camp. On the way plenty of guides who come back from the mountain ask me why I am hiking alone and promise to guide me on the mountain later. It is a new experience for me to hike up a mountain with all the equipment in my back pack, especially in an altitude of more than 5000 meters. Afterwards I try my equipment and how to walk on a glacier with crampons. In the afternoon other groups arrive and finally also my guide appears. We discuss the most important things and after dinner it is time to sleep. Unfortunately I cannot sleep one minute.

At midnight it is time to prepare all the equipment, to eat some bread and to drink a coca tea. My stomach feels not good but some minutes later we are on the way to the summit. Step by step in the darkness we walk up the glacier. My guide and I are connected by a rope and we move slowly forward. The altitude is no problem for me and I am always following my guide. Sometimes I have to concentrate extremely in terms of the small path. Further and further upwards, the lights of La Paz appears far away. My guide gets problems with the altitude. I feed him with chocolate and hope that he will not give up before we reach the summit. However his pure presence gives me security. Then he tells me that we have to climb an ice wall with crampons and the axe. I always wanted to do it but here. Now, really? By the way he forgets my helmet. Luckily, we make it but it was exhausting. We continue and the coca leaves help me although I cannot eat or drink anymore. My stomach makes weird sounds. At the last part I am also tired and need breaks to breath air. 20 meters walking, break, 20 meters walking.

Finally we reach the summit and the sun rises. I fall on my knees and am one of the happiest persons. I hug my guide. My guide calls his girlfriend. Although it is really cold, we are enjoying the view and the sunrise before we go down again. Now it is also exhausting to go down, I have a headache and my body does not want to work anymore. I walk fast because I want to come to a lower altitude. On the way back we stop for making pictures. When the climbing part comes I have luck that falling ice does not hit me on the head. Then we reach the high camp. Unfortunately no other group makes it on the summit. I eat and take a short nap before I go down to the base camp and from there back to La Paz.

Columbia, Ecuador, Peru

Veröffentlicht am 1. März 2016 von lenox@global

The Long Way to Colombia and Caribeean Flair

Reading Time: 3 minutes

My destination is Colombia. However the largest challenge is to decide how to go there. In order of many cocaine farmers there is no way overland. Hence I can take a flight, a sailing boat, a speed boat or the new ferry. I decide myself for the new ferry due to the lowest price (108$). It is a mix of cruiser and ferry and leaves from Colon which has a reputation as one of the most dangerous cities in Panama. Obviously it is true. I get one of the last tickets for a seat but unfortunately it is at Christmas’ eve. The trip itself is cool. Instead of sleeping in one of the small seats I sleep on the floor which is for me more comfortable. Although it is not as bad as it sounds, I am happy when I arrive at Columbia after 17 hours. If you have questions about the ferry you can contact me. There is also an office of the company Ferry Xpress in Panama City but you should reserve a ticket in advance.

Cartagena: I arrive at the afternoon. It is really hot and I can feel the sun on my skin. I am happy that I have already booked a hostel thus I do not have to search one. Everything is crowded. I do some sightseeing and it is really nice. I have seen many colonial cities before but Cartagena is still different. Furthermore at night it changes into a Party city. There are many good places to hang out and enjoy a drink and the Caribbean flair. Beside the beautiful old center there are also many beaches in the close environment of Cartagena.

Although I like the charm of Cartagena I am curious about Santa Marta or rather the National park Tayrona. A friend calls it “small Paradise of Colombia” and I can only agree. I decide to hike first and relax then on the beach. Surprisingly no other person is interested in the beautiful hike. Hence I have the whole jungle for me and I do not see any persons in the next two hours. Have I said that it is beautiful? I notice how my body wants to run again and finally the day is a beautiful mix between sport and relaxing on sandy beaches. Although it is high season there are still many free places on the beach where you can read your book, snorkel and swim in the Caribbean sea. You feel you want to go to Tayrona, then you should bring sun crème, water and mosquito repellent with you. You need it. 😉

Medellin – Once the most dangerous city in the world

Reading Time: 2 minutes

After 16 hours in the bus I arrive in Medellin. After having one of the worst travelling days by bus from Cartagena to Santa Marta (instead of 4 hours 9!), I am surprised of the comfort in the bus even free Wifi is available and the seats can push far back. A little bit tired I arrive in Medellin. It is surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery. It is also called ever spring city due to the same pleasant temperature. It has same fancy buildings and the public transportation is fantastic. There is a metro line from north to south and cable cars connect quarters in the mountains. The reputation changed completely after the dead of Pablo Escobar, the rich drug lord who ruled the city. At night there are many lights and I feel safe walking around. What is to do in Medellin?

Visiting the city center including Plaza Botero and the Museum Antioquia which has many pictures of the famous artist Fernando Botero
Taking the metro and see the city
Going up the mountain to parque Arvi with the cable car and come back through nice villages by bus
Pueblito paisa, imitation of an old town in the center on a hill
Check out the amazing nightlife

Around Medellin there is also much to do. For example I visit Guatape with the rock el Penol. It is a 220 m high monolith surrounded by lakes which are embedded in scenery which reminds me to Scandinavia. The monolith is two hours away from Medellin. Just take a bus from the North bus terminal. There are also many Colombian tourists and I am always impressed by the openness and friendliness of the Columbians. If they see you are alone they just start a conversation with you and show you the city.

Bogota – Celebrating New Year in a Ghost City

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Bogota: 9 million inhabitants and a ghost city at the same time? How does it fit together? Ok here is my story:

I arrive in Bogota at the 31 December to celebrate New Year here. The city itself is huge. Thus it takes almost 1 hour from the Bus station to my hostel in Zona Rosa by metro bus. Zona Rosa is usual a hot spot for students who want to go out. However it is not today. While I am arriving at the hostel, the owner tells me that everything is closed. Unbelievable that there is nothing going on in a capital, I have to proof it by myself. Fortunately there are four other guys at the hostel, which also did not know it. I convince myself on a sightseeing tour through the city that really everything is closed. How does it come?

Everybody is leaving the city to go back in their towns and celebrate with their family or they go to the beaches. Hence a friend from the hostel and I can visit the city without people. The queues are extremely short and it is very relaxing to walk through an empty historic quarter or going up a mountain in a cable car and enjoying the view over Bogota. Furthermore I am glad to meet a friend from India who show us places away from the touristic parts. Additionally you can learn much more about a country if you hang out with locals. Thanks again Alejandro! Now I know and understand much more about Colombia and South America.

Fortunately we are told that there is one place (really only one) where is a concert and a little party. Hence we decide to check it out. It is quite nice but ends early. Tired from the day and the dancing we return to our hostel but it is closed. In order to come in there is a note with a number left. Regrettably we do not have a phone or a Columbian sim card. Although the streets are empty, we can stop some police men and ask them to call the number which is quite a challenge to explain our situation in Spanish. Finally the owner comes and we can go sleep. What a different start in a new year.

Cali – The Capital of Salsa

Reading minutes: less than 1 minute

Cali had the same reputation like Medellin. There was a rivalry between the two drug cartels in the two cities in former time. Today it is the third largest city in Columbia with some nice areas including viewing points over the city and quiet parks to hang out and relax from the hot sun. For example I enjoy the heat again in Cali, especially after the cold weather in Bogota. Furthermore you can see everywhere interesting and stylish graffiti.

Graffiti art at the ticket office of the stadium

What are the top activities in Cali?

Dancing salsa in one of the various salsa clubs
Relaxing in the parks
Walking up the hill to 3 crosses or to the statue of Jesus
Taking salsa lessons
Visit Cali for the Feria de Cali, a folk festival in December

Personally, I am totally impressed by how the people can dance salsa. If you have never been in Colombia on a salsa festival, then Cali is a trip worth. The people swing their hips independently of age, looking, religion, race, gender. All this does not matter. It is amazing. Everyone is dancing and the feet and bodies move extremely fast. Furthermore the people are also really friendly and open; they just start talking when you standing somewhere and are curious where I come from or give me advice where to go.

Ecuador – How It Is to Work in the Jungle?

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Before my trip I heard from some friends about an environmental project in the jungle close to Tena. Due to my wish to work in South America and learn more about the way of work there as well as live in the jungle for a short time and meet natives this project sounds exactly what I am looking for. Hence I applied and now I am in Tena, the door to all kind of treks and trips in the jungle of Ecuador or rather the amazon area.

What do I work? My tasks are various but here a short selection:

Measuring the area of a tree (Beißer) plantation with GPS and a measuring tape.
Planting Beißer (trees)
Maintenance of the paths
Break down old buildings
Cultivate the soil

Some interesting facts about my work to have an impression how it is to work in a jungle:

Working 7 hours per day from Monday till Friday at a tree plantation close to Misahualli or at a research station close to the Llanganates Nationalpark
At the weekend you can do excursions to caves or canyons especially for outdoor fans there are many activities
There is no electricity in both stations and no water in Lisanyaku however there are two rivers where you can take a refreshing bath
Working language is Spanish
You work with natives together
Always take mosquito repellent and sun crème with you
It is not always hot in the jungle especially at night or while raining a sweater is necessary
In Lisanyaku are not only snakes and spiders there are also Andean bears, woolly monkeys, mountain tapirs and pumas which is only a small selection of the various animal species.

As most times in life there is not everything perfect. Thus for example one week I m the only volunteer in the rain forest because everybody else is travelling. However also this has advantages. I used the time to read and improve my Spanish. Although it can be helpful to understand yourself better if you are alone, I am happy when I meet the other volunteers. It is a cool group and we have a lot of fun together. Especially Lisanyaku which lies in a proper jungle is a little paradise if you are looking for a quiet place. I m also deeply impressed how diverse the nature is there. The native people also called Quichua know many plants they use for medicine. At the beginning Quichuas are mostly reserved but by the time they become more open and communicative. Furthermore in the base in Tena there is a Papaya tree which supplies me with fresh papayas. I will always connect this fruit with Ecuador because it tastes so good here. In conclusion not everything worked as planed and the work in Ecuador is for sure less efficient than in Germany but I had a good time in the project and learnt a lot about myself.

Aventurous Jungle Hiking in Ecuardor

Reading Time: 3 minutes

As you know I m in the jungle for work but today it is time for hiking in the jungle of Ecuardor. In order to work and with regard to the rainy weather my two Quichuan colleagues want to stay at Lisanyaku. Actually they advise against the hiking tour because of the high water levels of rivers (it is rainy season), the wild animals (bears, pumas, snakes…) and because it is difficult to find the way. However all this facts are challenges which have led me to do it. One of the natives draws me a map with paint made out of berries.

I start my hike armed with only a machete, bath suits, a shirt and gumboots. One of the native shows me the way until the river where I have to pass it. According to the high water level I have to pass it with a ropeway made of a wooden triangle. The machete is fixed with a vine and I pull the rope. Together with the help of the native I cross the river. Unfortunately I have no camera with me but to give you an impression I show you some pictures from the way taken by other volunteers another time.

Now I am on my own and move forward carefully to find the way. One the one hand, this hike (alone in beautiful untouched nature, surrounded by animals) is exactly what I always want to do, but on the other hand I am also afraid because it is a strange and partly dangerous environment. From time to time I mark the trail by scratching symbols in trees and other wood. Furthermore I beat wood because I have heard that it repels snakes. I see birds and butterflies, cross small rivers and much underbrush. The small path goes steep uphill and finally I see a sign that I m in the Llanganates Nationalpark. I ask myself how much time is passed but I have no feeling for time anymore. I often have to use the machete to cut the trees to open the trail. Suddenly a window in the trees open and I have an awesome view over the surrounding mountains covered by an endless jungle. It is breath taking. I continue my hike and it goes down. Finally I come to a river. However I must notice that my map is wrong because the river flows in the opposite direction. As a result I walk first in the wrong direction. Then I turn round and follow the river upwards until two small cascades.

Sadly there is not the described rope and I have to discontinue my short climbing trial due to much water on the rocks. Disappointed I return but one the way back (maybe 30 m) I discover a blue white rope hanging down the wall and I climb up the wall. Five minutes later I am standing in front of a beautiful waterfall and my heart is filled with joy. After swimming and enjoying the nature I turn back.

My life of ease ends suddenly as I see a snake curled up in a ball directly on the tight trail. I steer clear of the snake with a drawn machete and observe the snake afterwards: “Live and let live”. Subsequently I look everywhere for snakes and due to my marks at trees I get lost infrequently and reach the river safely. Despite my doubts to pass the river alone with the ropeway is easier than I thought. Proudly I arrive at the research station Lisanyaku. Regarding my description the natives tell me that I saw a lance-head viper one of the most poisonous snakes in the area.

Learnings:

You can achieve everything you really want with brave, optimism, confidence
Live and let live
The beauty of a jungle hike
Sometimes you must go back before you go forward
Orientation in the jungle

Travel in Ecuador: from Jungle to Desert

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Travel in Ecuador from Jungle to Desert, yes I feel that I have to write about the country I spend the most time so far, especially because firstly I did not want to visit it. It is underestimated and most of the people only know it for the fascinating Galapagos Islands. Lying between Colombia and Peru, Ecuador has only 283.561 km² and a population of around 15 million people. However the diversity for such a small country is impressive. It offers everything from Jungle over the mountains in the Andes to beautiful beaches at the pacific coast. Relating to the different landscapes you can find all climates there. The people are less open than in Colombia but it is interesting to see the different cultures like the Quitchuas in the amazon area and other native groups in the Andes region and at the coast. My impression is that the people are more traditional in that country and the influence of the church is strong. Besides my volunteering project and visiting my relatives there, I also travel around:

Quito
Tena
Banos
Latacunga and Quilotoa
Puerto Lopez
Los Frailes
Cuenca

There is too much to say or to do at these places to summarize it in one story. Thus I just describe some of my impressions at special places and share some pictures with you. By the way I have a new name here in South America, the people call me Leo because they cannot remember my name. 😉 On the one hand it is really confusing if somebody calls you with another name but on the other hand it is really funny. Who does not want to change his identity for a short time?

As part of my trip in Ecuador I visit Quilotoa which is a beautiful lake on 4000 m. Especially under the week there are only a few tourists here and I use the chance to run around the lake enjoying the beautiful Andean landscape around. In addition I get an impression how the native people live and work today. Personally I think they are still living like 100 of years ago because they still walking around in traditional clothes and together with their sheep.

Another highlight is the Isla de la Plata close to Puerto Lopez. First I stay at a beautiful wooden hostel directly at the beach. It is cheap and clean. However Puerto Lopez will change completely in the next years because real estate investors want to build hotels and resorts all along the beach. After relaxing one day at the beach with Swiss guys I met in Tena, I want to visit Isla de la Plata which is also called Galapagos Islands for poor people. There I can see among others the famous blue-footed boobies. Furthermore I dive to see an impressive underwater world including turtles and dolphins. In the following you can find some more pictures about my trip in Ecuador.

Desert Activities in Peru

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Desert Activities in Peru: The Peruan desert goes all along the coast. I can see it when I look out of the window, it seems endless. After two days of bus rides mostly at night, finally I arrive in Ika, a town surrounded by desert. A tuk tuk drives me to the oasis Huacachina which is famous for their huge sand dunes. I have not informed myself and luckily there are many hostels and it is quite touristy. However there is no ATM and again I have a money problem.

Fortunately there are some cheap deals for doing sandboarding and a tour with a sand buggy. After my experience of volcanic boarding in Nicaragua I am a little bit sceptical how safe it is but it the activitiy number one here. Sadly it is the only activity besides making tours to other places (like islands or flying over the Nazca lines). They have one thing in common: They are far away. Thus I book the sandboarding/sand buggy tour and are not disappointed. Immediately after my luggage is in the room the tour starts.

The buggy driver starts the engine and the engine wakes up with an aggressive roar. It goes up and down the steep dunes. Sometimes it feels like the sand buggy is flying. The driver, an old man keeps cool. He knows exactly what he is doing. Afterwards we do sandboarding and it is much easier than volcanboarding. The wind blows strong over the dunes. On some hills it is possible to use the sandboard like a snowboard. On other hills I prefer to lie on the board. In compare to volcanboarding you lie on your stomach with the head in the front. It is great fun. In the end we have a beautiful view over the oasis Huacachina and the sand dunes. Then it goes back to the hostel.

Peru: Machu Picchu

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Most famous tourist attraction in South America Machu Picchu:
After travelling to Colca Canyon to see Condors in a beautiful environment, I take a night bus to Cusco, the capital of the Inca culture. Exhausted and hungry I arrive in Cusco. I find a hostel together with some Brazilian friends. Unfortunately my bed is not free therefore I decide to do some sightseeing and walk around in the city and eat in one of the cheap restaurants which offer a menu for less than 2€. The next day it is time to go to Machu Picchu or at least to the closest town Agua Calientes. The expensive train is no option therefore we decide us for a 6 hours bus ride and 2 hours walking along the train treks. The road is hellish and sometimes the minibus cross bridges without railings. Only a few cm away drom the bus wheels is a deep abyss. The trek itself is incredible. Most of the people who decide for this option are backpackers. Despite we leave early in Cusco we have to hike fast along the train trek because our car broke on the way and another broken car barred the tight way along rocks. As consequence the first dish of the day is in the afternoon in Santa Teresa. From Hydroelectrica where the bus drops us, it is a 2 hours walk.

Aqua caliente itself is really touristy and I am happy that I can leave it at the next day. At 4:30 in the morning it is time to start walking to Machu Picchu or rather the entrance to hike up the mountain. It is still dark, cloudy and rains softly. Luckily I meet some people from the bus which have light and the queue is not long. At 5 o’clock it opens and I am ready to run up the mountain. If I am honest I hope to be the first in Machu Picchu because usually it is crowed due to more than 2000 visitors per day. When I arrive at the last entrance to enter the ruins I realize that they open the gate at 6 o’clock and it will not be possible to see it without other people. However the ruins are really impressive even if it is crowded of people.

There are many theories about Machu Picchu and unfortunately there are no scientific documents about that place. One theory is for instance that in former times mostly intellectual people lived in Machu people. It is impressive how much the Incas knew about astronomy. For example Machu Picchu is exactly built at 13° S Latitude. One of my highlights is to hike up the mountain Machu Picchu from which you have a beautiful round view including the ruins. After a short nap, I run down the mountain. It is like a drug and I cannot stop. The sun is shining now. I walk a last time around the ruins before I leave to the bus.

Working in Machu Picchu

On the way back to Hydroelectrica I meet a Portuguese man who cycles three month through South America. Can you imagine to cycle three month in the Andeans?

Although it starts raining now, my mood is in best form because it feels so good to do sport again. Finally we reach the bus station and of course we have to wait for our bus.

Lake Titicaca: The Highest Navigable Lake in the World

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Lake Titicaca:The highest navigable lake in the world! The lake is divided into two parts: One part belongs to Peru and the other one belongs to Bolivia. I am interested in both. Hence I stop in Puno (Peru) to see the floating Islands. A group of Indigenas so called Uros built artificial islands in order to protect themselves against the Spanish Conquerors. Since the arrival of the Spanish Conquerors they have lived there. The Islands itself are made out of reed which grows in the middle of the lake. Yearly they have to put new levels of reed on the islands. Despite it is interesting to see how they live and build the island, it is really touristy. Anyway, the boat trip and the Lake Titicaca itself is the trip worth. Unfortunately the weather is not that good and I am happy when I am back in Puno.

To get a better impression of the lake I go to Copacabana (not the beach in Brasil) which is the base town for trips to Isla de Sol, an island in the middle of the lake which provides beautiful sunrises and sunsets. After a night in a really shabby hostel (no warm water, no toilet paper, no Wifi, no window, no room key…) and two hours by a tiny crowded boat, I arrive at the north of the Island.

There, I must notice that it is not easy to find a room or a bed for only one person, but finally a family has a room for me. (again without Wifi and no shower).The clouds are just lifting and the sun is coming out so I start walking around and visit the ruins and the beach. The view from the hills is awesome. The sun is shining and the rocks shine in different red, grey and sand colours. I can feel that the air is thin. The lake is at an elevation of more than 3800 hm which you feel when you walk up the mountains. In the background you can see the white summits of mountains. It reminds me a little bit to the Lake Baikal. You can feel that the place is energetic and powerful. It is extraordinary. Without hesitation I can say that this island is one of the most idyllic places on my journey. As consequence I stay one more night. While the sun is going down, a group of backpacker and locals are playing soccer on the soccer court. I only watch the game and use the time to talk with some people. At the dinner I meet some Brazilians. Although they know that I am German (and they have not forgotten the World Championship) they share their wine with me. Afterwards, I enjoyed a kind of local festival in the town. The people play music and dance. However it is too cold to stay long and I decide to go early to bed due to the missing sleep of the last days (night buses). The second day I hike on the second highest peak of the island, read and swim in the lake. I can tell you it is cold. I meet a lot of Chileans with whom I play soccer or hang around at the beach after the sunset. Every night it develops a real community of backpackers at the beach and guitars are played. After an awesome sunrise at the third day, it is time to leave but this place I will not forget soon.

What can you do on the Island?

Hiking
Visiting the ruins
Reading
Swimming (really cold)
Playing soccer in the evening
Camping
Relaxing and enjoying the nature (No Internet)

Learnings:

Save money where it makes sense
A human person needs less for life than he/she thinks
Listen to your body
You decide if the situation is good or not, it is all in your head
Accept situations which you cannot change and save energy for the other situation

Additionally here are some pictures of the lake.